What kind of oil do you use for your blades?

A. G. Maisey · 28th November 2009, 03:51 AM

Yes, a hand rubbed oil finish is more subdued than a french polished finish, or any of the other variations that are used now. I am not a woodworker, even though I have made a number of custom rifle stocks, but my father was a fine art cabinet maker, and others in his family were the same trade. A normal french polish used to be the bench mark for a fine furniture finish, and if done correctly, this will highlight anything that a grain has to offer.

The old English stock finishes were, as previously mentioned, hand rubbed oil finishes, and although these will blind you with reflected light, for a connoisseur this has long been regarded as the finish of choice. The grain is still there, it is still chatoyant, but you require taste and education to appreciate it, rather than the bling that is a factor in a fine french polish, and that anybody can see and appreciate.

clockwork · 28th November 2009, 04:20 AM

I have use clove oil on my blades with good results and it smells good LOL

Nathaniel · 27th February 2017, 04:51 AM

Hello all. Just thought I would repost this thread and see if anyone had anything new to add

kahnjar1 · 27th February 2017, 05:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nathaniel

Hello all. Just thought I would repost this thread and see if anyone had anything new to add

Hi Nat,
Most seems to be covered already, but here's one we used years ago when using (particularly) guns for hunting in wet/damp conditions. 50/50 gun oil and Vaseline. Heat slightly to liquify the Vaseline and mix thoroughly. Doubles as a lubricant and waterproofer. Perhaps not so suitable for blades but excellent for keeping rust off guns.
Stu

kronckew · 27th February 2017, 09:29 AM

still using ballistol here.

or BLO on wood. LO is actually flax seed oil, flax fibre=linen.

be careful, most commercial BLO uses chemical additives, usually metallic oxides and salts to get the quick drying effect rather than spending all that time required if it is actually boiled. it's poisonous, so don't hand rub with it. i found some proper actually 'boiled' blo at my local hardware store, they also happen to be the local undertaker and coffin maker. (small town

)

Bob A · 2nd March 2017, 05:01 AM

For what it may be worth, I have used a product called Eezox on some metal items. It is both a solvent and a rust inhibitor. For red surface rust, and as a protection for some blades, I've found that cleaning with eezox and a stainless steel ribbon sponge, sold as "scrub buds", will remove light rust without damaging the surface finish, for example the bluing on firearms. Several applications, wiped with an absorbent rag, will leave red-brown staining on the rag, until the rust is minimised. I leave eezox on the surface to dry, where it forms a protective barrier against further oxidation. Once everything has dried, an application of renaissance wax serves as additional protection.

Obviously there are objects for which this is inappropriate. That said, I've found blades and firearms so treated have remained protected for more than a few years, admittedly in a reasonably controlled environment.

Paul B. · 8th December 2019, 02:33 PM

I wonder why some blades keep there smell for years where others fade in a few weeks time. Nowadays I don't use fragant oils just a cheap sewing oil. Could it be that the smell is absorbed by the inside of the gandar ?
Once I had to change the dress of a blade with a longlasting smell but in the replaced dress it did not have that strong smell anymore hence my conclusion.

28th November 2009, 03:51 AM	#1
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,015	Yes, a hand rubbed oil finish is more subdued than a french polished finish, or any of the other variations that are used now. I am not a woodworker, even though I have made a number of custom rifle stocks, but my father was a fine art cabinet maker, and others in his family were the same trade. A normal french polish used to be the bench mark for a fine furniture finish, and if done correctly, this will highlight anything that a grain has to offer. The old English stock finishes were, as previously mentioned, hand rubbed oil finishes, and although these will blind you with reflected light, for a connoisseur this has long been regarded as the finish of choice. The grain is still there, it is still chatoyant, but you require taste and education to appreciate it, rather than the bling that is a factor in a fine french polish, and that anybody can see and appreciate.

28th November 2009, 04:20 AM	#2
clockwork Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 96	I have use clove oil on my blades with good results and it smells good LOL

27th February 2017, 04:51 AM	#3
Nathaniel Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 865	Hello all. Just thought I would repost this thread and see if anyone had anything new to add

27th February 2017, 09:29 AM	#5
kronckew Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Room 101, Glos. UK Posts: 4,224	still using ballistol here. or BLO on wood. LO is actually flax seed oil, flax fibre=linen. be careful, most commercial BLO uses chemical additives, usually metallic oxides and salts to get the quick drying effect rather than spending all that time required if it is actually boiled. it's poisonous, so don't hand rub with it. i found some proper actually 'boiled' blo at my local hardware store, they also happen to be the local undertaker and coffin maker. (small town )

2nd March 2017, 05:01 AM	#6
Bob A Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Posts: 436	For what it may be worth, I have used a product called Eezox on some metal items. It is both a solvent and a rust inhibitor. For red surface rust, and as a protection for some blades, I've found that cleaning with eezox and a stainless steel ribbon sponge, sold as "scrub buds", will remove light rust without damaging the surface finish, for example the bluing on firearms. Several applications, wiped with an absorbent rag, will leave red-brown staining on the rag, until the rust is minimised. I leave eezox on the surface to dry, where it forms a protective barrier against further oxidation. Once everything has dried, an application of renaissance wax serves as additional protection. Obviously there are objects for which this is inappropriate. That said, I've found blades and firearms so treated have remained protected for more than a few years, admittedly in a reasonably controlled environment.

8th December 2019, 02:33 PM	#7
Paul B. Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 205	I wonder why some blades keep there smell for years where others fade in a few weeks time. Nowadays I don't use fragant oils just a cheap sewing oil. Could it be that the smell is absorbed by the inside of the gandar ? Once I had to change the dress of a blade with a longlasting smell but in the replaced dress it did not have that strong smell anymore hence my conclusion.