Kris Restoration...

Spunjer · 18th May 2005, 05:54 AM

thanks bill and federico. the scabbard is so dry, it feels like balsa wood.

Quote:

A little oil (I use a linseed/tung/turpentine mix myself) will add vitality and strength to the wood, and will darken it slightly.

what ratio do you use for this? yeah, basically, that's what i'm trying to attain; a slightly darker scabbard. i'm also thinking about adding rattan binds. as for hilt/blade adhesive i'll definitely use pitch on this one. for etching, i've been using ferric chloride, but i'm thinking of using the more traditional stuff like citric or acetic acid this time. once again, thanks guys...

Federico · 18th May 2005, 06:12 AM

Ive been using a 1/3 ratio for each, maybe a little more tung oil than linseed. Essentially you are making a wiping varnish. Make sure you find boiled linseed oil, the unboiled stuff takes forever to dry. Since its so dry, when you apply, apply thick, let sit for a minute or two (to allow the wood to absorb the oils) and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Wipe as much as you can off, let dry for a day, and repeat till you feel satisfied with the look. If it builds up to fast, use #0000 steel wool, and rub between sessions. In the first few coats it will seem like you are removing everything, but you are building up micro-layers that will help bring out the grain of the wood. You can also use tru-oil as well, but while I like it for new projects, its a little too bright for my tastes to use on antique pieces. It should darken down pretty well with oil, if it is the kind of wood I am thinking of. The more sessions you do with the oil, the more the grain will pop out, but its real easy to get carried away (you can actually fill cracks with the oil, and it will help seal smaller cracks), I wish I could a recommended number of sessions, but well I normally get carried away. Once you are satisfied with the look, seal it all with a good wax (ren wax works, other wood waxes can work as well and some may add more protection) to protect the finish, and it will add some shine. When done you should have a good mellow finish, that will only grow darker with age. A great benefit of this process, should anything occur down the road, its real easy to repair. Steel wool the wax, and then re-oil.

As for etching, try doing a cleaning etch with lemon juice. The citric acid bites a little stronger than FECL, and does a great job of cleaning off rust deposits (save some elbow grease with the steel wool). Worse case scenario its etches a little white, but you can always go back with FECL to adjust color.

Mark · 18th May 2005, 02:35 PM

I have used a mix of naptha and boiled linseed oil with good effect. The naptha thins the oil and helps it penetrate, then evaporates. I apply it with 0000 steel wool, gently rubbing it & wiping at first, to remove gunk, then applying a coat to soak in and wiping it clean after a few minutes. I forget the proportions (I mixed up a jar of it a while back, and it has lasted long enough that the info has faded), but the 1/3 sounds about right.

Spunjer · 19th May 2005, 01:01 PM

thanks for your suggestion, mark.

another thing: how do i remove the old galgal/gunk in the handle? i'm sure you guys has some ingenous ways...

Rick · 19th May 2005, 01:29 PM

For a scraper cut a 6" piece of coathanger wire . Flatten one end with a hammer on a metal surface . Give it a proper chisel edge with a file , bend sharpened end to fit .
Sometimes it is easier to make a finger loop at the end for ease of manipulation . Don't make the shaft too long or the flex will interfere with the amount of pressure you want to apply to the working end .

Spunjer · 19th May 2005, 03:30 PM

rick,
the galgal/gunk is rock solid. are there any solutions you can pour to soften this up?

Rick · 19th May 2005, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spunjer

rick,
the galgal/gunk is rock solid. are there any solutions you can pour to soften this up?

Is there a lot of it ?

Maybe the thing to do would be to clean and re-heat the tang and try to reset it in the handle in the proper orientation adding some new galgal if needed , the old mastic may still get soft with heat (or it might not).

The problems with pouring stuff into the hole could be many , if you used hot oil you might ruin the hilt for re-mounting by making it too slick .
Any kind of spirits would degrade the finish .

Possibly a narrow straight chisel or chisel sharpened screwdriver could be used to get between the mastic and the wood and gently remove it .
You could also heat the implement .

18th May 2005, 06:12 AM	#2
Federico Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA Posts: 312	Ive been using a 1/3 ratio for each, maybe a little more tung oil than linseed. Essentially you are making a wiping varnish. Make sure you find boiled linseed oil, the unboiled stuff takes forever to dry. Since its so dry, when you apply, apply thick, let sit for a minute or two (to allow the wood to absorb the oils) and then wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Wipe as much as you can off, let dry for a day, and repeat till you feel satisfied with the look. If it builds up to fast, use #0000 steel wool, and rub between sessions. In the first few coats it will seem like you are removing everything, but you are building up micro-layers that will help bring out the grain of the wood. You can also use tru-oil as well, but while I like it for new projects, its a little too bright for my tastes to use on antique pieces. It should darken down pretty well with oil, if it is the kind of wood I am thinking of. The more sessions you do with the oil, the more the grain will pop out, but its real easy to get carried away (you can actually fill cracks with the oil, and it will help seal smaller cracks), I wish I could a recommended number of sessions, but well I normally get carried away. Once you are satisfied with the look, seal it all with a good wax (ren wax works, other wood waxes can work as well and some may add more protection) to protect the finish, and it will add some shine. When done you should have a good mellow finish, that will only grow darker with age. A great benefit of this process, should anything occur down the road, its real easy to repair. Steel wool the wax, and then re-oil. As for etching, try doing a cleaning etch with lemon juice. The citric acid bites a little stronger than FECL, and does a great job of cleaning off rust deposits (save some elbow grease with the steel wool). Worse case scenario its etches a little white, but you can always go back with FECL to adjust color.

18th May 2005, 02:35 PM	#3
Mark Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 987	I have used a mix of naptha and boiled linseed oil with good effect. The naptha thins the oil and helps it penetrate, then evaporates. I apply it with 0000 steel wool, gently rubbing it & wiping at first, to remove gunk, then applying a coat to soak in and wiping it clean after a few minutes. I forget the proportions (I mixed up a jar of it a while back, and it has lasted long enough that the info has faded), but the 1/3 sounds about right.

19th May 2005, 01:01 PM	#4
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	thanks for your suggestion, mark. another thing: how do i remove the old galgal/gunk in the handle? i'm sure you guys has some ingenous ways...

19th May 2005, 01:29 PM	#5
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,336	For a scraper cut a 6" piece of coathanger wire . Flatten one end with a hammer on a metal surface . Give it a proper chisel edge with a file , bend sharpened end to fit . Sometimes it is easier to make a finger loop at the end for ease of manipulation . Don't make the shaft too long or the flex will interfere with the amount of pressure you want to apply to the working end .

19th May 2005, 03:30 PM	#6
Spunjer Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Witness Protection Program Posts: 1,730	rick, the galgal/gunk is rock solid. are there any solutions you can pour to soften this up?