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#1 | |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,209
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![]() Quote:
We are ancious to see the results. |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 189
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No desire to re-heat treat the blade, since I’m interested in what’s left of the original heat treating and it feels like that would be a final insult to this blade which has already had a tough life. The hilt could get some surface-level help, but not ‘til after the blade is in better shape. I don’t think I’ll disassemble the grip, which will limit the scope of work on that area.
A photo essay sounds like a good idea, though this isn’t a front-burner project so it might go on for a while! The final result will be far short of the blade’s former glory, though, it is too far gone to be more than a shadow of its original self. I’m thinking of splitting the difference between a conservation and restoration, restoring it back to a possibly imaginary point just before it fell into the hands of people unaware of basic sword care – but there is a lot of deep rust and other damage that will remain. I used a manual press to remove the bends and ripples, since it has good control at the high force levels needed to take out that curve. There were also a lot of bends, so it was helpful in isolating them one by one. I held the blade against a flat surface and marked where it touched, then used blocks of wood at those points to transmit the force in the right direction. |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 478
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It looks like the butt cap may be a kashira. Is it possible the handguard is a reworked tsuba? It also looks like it could hava a fuchi there also. Intresting to say the least. Further look also appears to have a seppa next to the tsuba like guard?
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 189
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Yes, the grip is wearing a fuchi and kashira in brass, the guard is a copper tsuba with 1/3 hacked off indicating that the new owner was right-handed and liked to carry the sword with the grip close-in to the body (well, I guess most swords are worn close-in compared to the Japanese style) – two copper seppa.
Next step is to remove the surface rust with a fine-grit stone to see what’s really going on, determine the course of further action; and polish a small section to check out the steel and hamon. |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 478
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Jeff, very cool. I don't know about anybody else but I'm excited!
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 2,658
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This has become a very interesting thread. Great work Jeff
![]() ![]() Kind Regards David |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 478
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Jeff, any further developments on this?
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