Clear-painted Handle

Rick · 10th January 2008, 03:51 PM

Acetone would probably work ok ; remember if you're going to use a small scrub brush to clean in the carved areas be sure that the bristles are natural rather than plastic lest they melt in the solvent .

MEK ( Methyl Ethyl Ketone ) would probably work well too .

Both of these will most likely make the wood look dried out after use .

Henk · 10th January 2008, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick

Acetone would probably work ok ; remember if you're going to use a small scrub brush to clean in the carved areas be sure that the bristles are natural rather than plastic lest they melt in the solvent .

MEK ( Methyl Ethyl Ketone ) would probably work well too .

Both of these will most likely make the wood look dried out after use .

Shoe polish is maybe not the best option. Bee wax or furniture oil is better, I think.

A. G. Maisey · 10th January 2008, 08:28 PM

I've used acetone on this stuff successfully, but the problem with this type of deeply and intricately carved hilt is that there are always deposits of the horrible stuff left in the bottom of the carved depressions. The only effective way I've found of removing these is to use a little sharp bambu stick and a jeweller's loupe, and pick the muck out of each hole.A steel needle will work too, but it requires a lot of care to ensure you don't damage the wood. Slow, but if its worth doing, its worth the time to do it. A few good rubs with baby oil will bring the wood surface back to condition. Linseed oil is better than baby oil for this, but it smells too strong and takes too long to dry. There are some OK proprietary furniture oils that could be used too, but I doubt that you could buy these in Indonesia. Oiled furniture just doesn't work where you are. Don't use these oils in the wet season, you'll have mildew everywhere before you know it.By "good rubs", I mean a few drops of oil on your hand and rub in well to the point where your hand is hot, maybe ten minutes at a time, repeated daily over three or four days. You could then buff with a shoe brush to give a bit of a shine.

10th January 2008, 03:51 PM	#1
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,339	Solvents Acetone would probably work ok ; remember if you're going to use a small scrub brush to clean in the carved areas be sure that the bristles are natural rather than plastic lest they melt in the solvent . MEK ( Methyl Ethyl Ketone ) would probably work well too . Both of these will most likely make the wood look dried out after use .

10th January 2008, 08:28 PM	#3
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,015	I've used acetone on this stuff successfully, but the problem with this type of deeply and intricately carved hilt is that there are always deposits of the horrible stuff left in the bottom of the carved depressions. The only effective way I've found of removing these is to use a little sharp bambu stick and a jeweller's loupe, and pick the muck out of each hole.A steel needle will work too, but it requires a lot of care to ensure you don't damage the wood. Slow, but if its worth doing, its worth the time to do it. A few good rubs with baby oil will bring the wood surface back to condition. Linseed oil is better than baby oil for this, but it smells too strong and takes too long to dry. There are some OK proprietary furniture oils that could be used too, but I doubt that you could buy these in Indonesia. Oiled furniture just doesn't work where you are. Don't use these oils in the wet season, you'll have mildew everywhere before you know it.By "good rubs", I mean a few drops of oil on your hand and rub in well to the point where your hand is hot, maybe ten minutes at a time, repeated daily over three or four days. You could then buff with a shoe brush to give a bit of a shine.