My first Dha ....a few questions please

katana · 19th November 2007, 10:28 PM

Thank you Steve,
excellent post and well executed ( well it is a weapons forum

)

I think it would be a very good idea if your 'how to' thread was added to a new 'sticky' catergory that others could add to. eg how to ...make a scabbard, re-hilt a Tulwar, replacing/ repairing damaged brass work etc. The need for minor repairs and restorations seem more common these days.....or maybe because interest in Ethnic weapons is increasing, people are more inclined to improve the condition of their pieces.

Either way it would be a good resource for 'repair information'

Anyone any thoughts ?

David

PUFF · 20th November 2007, 11:58 AM

More info,

- Traditional hilt material 's bamboo or giant rattan. Their elasticity will absorb most of hand shock. Most of modern tourish type have hardwood handle because it "looks" stronger and nicer finish.

- Although some blades were mount with no glued (rely on friction). Most of them (at this age) were glued with hot-set resin. You may not want to DIY hot-set method for many reasons (hard to find material, complicate method, risk of removing blade temper etc...). IMO: epoxy glue will do the job.

- Scabbard could be made of teak wood. It has fine grain and not very hard to be carved. Teak wood will take some degree of finish. And it also has anti-insect property.

katana · 20th November 2007, 04:20 PM

Thanks Puff

After Dan's comments about the length of the tang possibly being longer than usual I decided to fully remove the blade. The Tang is 4.5" (11.5cms) long , the blade is 19.5" (49.5 cms) this gives a ratio of 1:4.3. (previously I used a magnet to check length of tang whilst still in the handle and it was only 3mm out....so a magnet 'test' seems quite accurate for those that want to measure their own tangs)
Assuming that longer blades would require a longer tang a 30" blade would have a tang of 7" (well 6.976" if you wanted to be accurate

)

Does that seem about right?

Mark · 20th November 2007, 10:41 PM

That is a tad on the long side. A 2.5-3 inch tang would be more typical. I don't have very many dha with a handle loose enough to remove, so I think I will try the magnet test. Clever idea. Ian once posted a series of blade:tang ratios, but I don't have the link. I'll add it here if I can find it.

katana · 21st November 2007, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark

That is a tad on the long side. A 2.5-3 inch tang would be more typical.

I hope this doesn't start a new male 'condition' ......tang envy

katana · 23rd November 2007, 11:26 PM

After doing a little research ....a tang of approx. 3" seems fairly typical for a blade of around 20".

I had considered the possibillity that my blade had been shortened (hence the 4.5" tang) but the distal taper would be wrong. Seeing that the brass 'dots' seem to be placed very near the tip (on other examples shown) .....also suggests that this is no 'cut down'.

Personally I prefer the idea of a longer tang .... perhaps the forger of this blade had the same sentiments. From a practical point of view, it may make it more robust and less likely to break (part company with the handle). Is it possible that this blade had a specific use which required a stronger bond between blade and hilt.

20th November 2007, 04:20 PM	#3
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	Thanks Puff After Dan's comments about the length of the tang possibly being longer than usual I decided to fully remove the blade. The Tang is 4.5" (11.5cms) long , the blade is 19.5" (49.5 cms) this gives a ratio of 1:4.3. (previously I used a magnet to check length of tang whilst still in the handle and it was only 3mm out....so a magnet 'test' seems quite accurate for those that want to measure their own tangs) Assuming that longer blades would require a longer tang a 30" blade would have a tang of 7" (well 6.976" if you wanted to be accurate ) Does that seem about right? Attached Images

19th November 2007, 10:28 PM	#1
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	Thank you Steve, excellent post and well executed ( well it is a weapons forum ) I think it would be a very good idea if your 'how to' thread was added to a new 'sticky' catergory that others could add to. eg how to ...make a scabbard, re-hilt a Tulwar, replacing/ repairing damaged brass work etc. The need for minor repairs and restorations seem more common these days.....or maybe because interest in Ethnic weapons is increasing, people are more inclined to improve the condition of their pieces. Either way it would be a good resource for 'repair information' Anyone any thoughts ? David

20th November 2007, 11:58 AM	#2
PUFF Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: 30 miles north of Bangkok, 20 miles south of Ayuthaya, Thailand Posts: 224	More info, - Traditional hilt material 's bamboo or giant rattan. Their elasticity will absorb most of hand shock. Most of modern tourish type have hardwood handle because it "looks" stronger and nicer finish. - Although some blades were mount with no glued (rely on friction). Most of them (at this age) were glued with hot-set resin. You may not want to DIY hot-set method for many reasons (hard to find material, complicate method, risk of removing blade temper etc...). IMO: epoxy glue will do the job. - Scabbard could be made of teak wood. It has fine grain and not very hard to be carved. Teak wood will take some degree of finish. And it also has anti-insect property.

20th November 2007, 10:41 PM	#4
Mark Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 987	That is a tad on the long side. A 2.5-3 inch tang would be more typical. I don't have very many dha with a handle loose enough to remove, so I think I will try the magnet test. Clever idea. Ian once posted a series of blade:tang ratios, but I don't have the link. I'll add it here if I can find it.

23rd November 2007, 11:26 PM	#6
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	After doing a little research ....a tang of approx. 3" seems fairly typical for a blade of around 20". I had considered the possibillity that my blade had been shortened (hence the 4.5" tang) but the distal taper would be wrong. Seeing that the brass 'dots' seem to be placed very near the tip (on other examples shown) .....also suggests that this is no 'cut down'. Personally I prefer the idea of a longer tang .... perhaps the forger of this blade had the same sentiments. From a practical point of view, it may make it more robust and less likely to break (part company with the handle). Is it possible that this blade had a specific use which required a stronger bond between blade and hilt.