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#1 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA Georgia
Posts: 1,599
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Thanks |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 2,658
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Hi Bill,
after following the link provided by DD ...there was a concern regarding this method..... 'there is a chance that metal cleaned this way may be subject to hydrogen embrittlement. This can happen in many processes such as electroplating or welding. It should not be a problem unless you are cleaning hardened steel such as saw blades, knives, or chisels. If you are and you intend to use the item (rather than simply displaying it) you may want to try baking the part in an oven, I've heard of using temperatures from 300°F to 440°F (150°C to 225°C) for several hours.' Apparently hydrogen atoms 'get into' the steel structure and weakens it.... HOWEVER.....there is the possibility that this only occurs when electro-plating. I have checked several websites regarding this method of rust removal...a 'sword' site and a site that deals with old tool collecting....BOTH state that this is a SAFE method.........bearing in mind that we are talking 'hardened steels in both of these sites.......it seems that 'hydrogen embrittlement' would be either unlikely or of little consequence..... But I am no metallurgist.... |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 5,503
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In my experience, non-scouring Brillo pads and liberal WD-40 work very well. Bit smelly, but the results are instantaneous and there is no danger of damage to vulnerable parts and no concern about possible interactions with the blade. I suspect the mandau was patinated, and the patina was lost too...
This electrochemical method looks more suitable to semi-industrial uses. Also, knowing my cats, I am a bit leery of finding one or both of them de-haired ![]() |
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#4 | |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA Georgia
Posts: 1,599
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I don't like patination on metal. Love it on wood and ivory. I can make a blade look very patinated quite easily. But I am concerned with metallurgical changes. These blades could house spirits, maybe did at one time. Of course maybe brillo and wd 40 is invasive. the electrochemical process seems less invasive than rubbing or worse yet, a power buffer! Sheesch, where do you start and end in this arena? Gonna go check on my mandau blade. Still cooking. |
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#5 |
Deceased
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA, DEEP SOUTH, GEORGIA, Y'all hear?
Posts: 121
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Hi all,
I have used this product,"Evapo-Rust" for rust removal and it worked well for me. The only caution is that at the air/solution interface line ( where the solution ends and the air starts) will cause an fine etch line ![]() This is the link to a source for the product, cheapest one that I found, and there are others as well. http://www.theruststore.com/ Read and follow the instructions on the container. The fine etch line it very light and easy to remove but it is better not to have it there in the first place. If anyone does use this product get back with us and let us know how you made out. It saved me a lot of work and no I do not have stock in the company, ![]() Gene |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 372
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Hi,
as mentioned many times before simple things like pineapple juice and some elbow grease work well too. I just had a pedang blade cleaned in this manner followed by ferric chloride treatment to bring up the pattern. Whilst I realise some prefer to leave blades 'as is', in a heavily laminated blade such as this one the skill of the maker and the beauty of the blade might have never been seen again without a clean up like this. There is a before and after of a section of the blade and then a full view of the results. DrD |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA Georgia
Posts: 1,599
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i have heard that pineapple juice is a good rust remover and certainly seems in everyday use in Java for that purpose.
How do you prepare it? Do you put pineapple slices in a blender? Buy ready made pienapple juice? |
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