Later-era saber kris for comment

[RobT]

xasterix,

In your initial post in this thread you wrote, "I didn't attach an asang-asang anymore because it was mono-construction anyway, and the carved art extends into the 'vacant' area for the clamp." I believe that the asang-asang (asang-asangs when there are two) is intended as additional support/shock absorption to prevent the tang from torquing in the hilt when a blow is struck. As such, whether the blade is mono construction or not is irrelevant. Just my two cents but, were the sword mine, I would replace the asang-asang even though it covers up part of the engraving.

Sincerely,
RobT

[xasterix]

Originally Posted by RobT

xasterix,

In your initial post in this thread you wrote, "I didn't attach an asang-asang anymore because it was mono-construction anyway, and the carved art extends into the 'vacant' area for the clamp." I believe that the asang-asang (asang-asangs when there are two) is intended as additional support/shock absorption to prevent the tang from torquing in the hilt when a blow is struck. As such, whether the blade is mono construction or not is irrelevant. Just my two cents but, were the sword mine, I would replace the asang-asang even though it covers up part of the engraving.

Sincerely,
RobT

Good point Rob, that's indeed among the original purposes of the asang-asang. I'm planning to install an unattached one (minus the clamp extension, since the hilt cavity and ferrule are epoxied already) in the future to complete the "look" at least.

[Rick]

I don't think I've seen any examples of these decorated Moro swords that wouldn't be fit to use in a combat situation.
Not to say that these were or were not made with an eye for sales to world travelers.
They are certainly well made and quite functional for something that may be intended for sale outside the culture.

[drac2k]

As an after mention, the heading under the plate read "No.1 Straight-edged steel kampilan captured by the expedition under Capt. J.J. Pershing,1903, Moro, Lake Lanao, Mindanao."
Once again, I am note knowledgeable enough to comment on the age of this featured sword, but it does show that this type of engraving was done at least back to 1903 and if this was indeed a captured item, it wasn't done merely as a tourist item embellishment.

[xasterix]

Dear Drac and Rick:

Thanks for the additional comments! Will definitely consider these data.

[RobT]

Hi All,

I went back and forth for an entire day before finally deciding to make this post. I really don't like to get up on a soapbox and I sincerely hope no one is offended but the mention in this thread of a hilt epoxied in place made my skin crawl. Normally, I would preface my remarks with "in my opinion" but in this case I will say without the slightest equivocation that components of antique or collectible weapons should never be affixed by any method or with any substance that would require damage to any of the pieces to get them loose again. Epoxy is at the top of the list of things to be avoided. For securing hilts, cutler's resin is sufficient, easy to make, and easy to undo with heat. There are a number of online how-to videos with various formulae. Even for repairing a crack in wood, epoxy is undesirable because it is thick and will leave a glue line. Modern cross link polymer and cyanoacrylate glues are appropriate for these types of repairs if dry clamping shows that the crack can be drawn together and glued invisibly. Again, I hope that I didn't offend anybody but I couldn't let this go. I am sure that, if there are any forum members that are involved with antique furniture restoration, they will agree with me wholeheartedly.

Sincerely,
RobT

[xasterix]

Originally Posted by RobT

Hi All,

I went back and forth for an entire day before finally deciding to make this post. I really don't like to get up on a soapbox and I sincerely hope no one is offended but the mention in this thread of a hilt epoxied in place made my skin crawl. Normally, I would preface my remarks with "in my opinion" but in this case I will say without the slightest equivocation that components of antique or collectible weapons should never be affixed by any method or with any substance that would require damage to any of the pieces to get them loose again. Epoxy is at the top of the list of things to be avoided. For securing hilts, cutler's resin is sufficient, easy to make, and easy to undo with heat. There are a number of online how-to videos with various formulae. Even for repairing a crack in wood, epoxy is undesirable because it is thick and will leave a glue line. Modern cross link polymer and cyanoacrylate glues are appropriate for these types of repairs if dry clamping shows that the crack can be drawn together and glued invisibly. Again, I hope that I didn't offend anybody but I couldn't let this go. I am sure that, if there are any forum members that are involved with antique furniture restoration, they will agree with me wholeheartedly.

Sincerely,
RobT

Hello Rob!

Firstly: I understand your concern, and that's a common mindset among provenance-based antique collectors. There is a focus on keeping an item "as is" and close to the original item as possible, although I contend that this is where the "Ship of Theseus" paradox comes in. IMHO, any modification to a piece, no matter how close to the original material was used, is already a modification nonetheless. The only way to keep a piece "frozen in time" or "consistent with its original provenance" is simply to let it be- which, for a large number of antique Moro and Filipino tradblades- is in their rusted, dilapidated, or incomplete condition.

Secondly: I secure my pieces with epoxy because I do not intend these as display-only pieces. As several in this forum already know- Kino, Ian, Leif, Gavin, Jeff, and others- I restore my pieces in order to wield and cut different media with them. It's part of my personal study as a student of the Moro Fighting Arts. Epoxy is the best adhesive to secure a blade to the hilt, especially in the case of antiques being "called back from retirement" and put under cutting tests. This practice has been done with the approval and guidance of Moro elders, in order for us to actualize the preserved martial methods into blades from bygone eras, while maintaining a degree of safety and avoiding accidents such as flying blades (this has happened several times with antiques whose original adhesives have dried up). To note- Moro blades made in modern time are installed to the hilt with epoxy, as generations of artisans have noted its superior strength compared to other adhesives. It's simply a modern and accessible solution for extensive blade usage in a modern era.

Thirdly: I bought the item, so it's mine to do as I wish. There are loads of other samples, better and complete ones, stored up or displayed in museums and collections all over the world, in all their as-is provenance glory. In my case, actualizing generations' worth of martial methods on the actual artifacts takes precedence over attempting to keep a piece frozen in time. I take extra care in describing any modern modifications or materials used in my pieces (I do this for all my forum and published-media posts).

I bear you no ill-will, and I don't expect you to agree with my reasons; but I just wanted to state those for the record.