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#1 |
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Ireland
Posts: 543
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Hi Colin,
I am glad you posted after I got my shield as I would have been set up for disappointment. I took no beforehand pics unfortunately. I soaked shield totally immersed for 3 hours in warmish water, it was rock solid before hand but reasonably mailable after. I then put it on piece of plywood (the warping one side was bent through 70 degrees) I eased it flat over a period of a day with heavy weights. Then I took off weights and put planks wood over the shield and screwed the ends of the planks into the plywood sheet to clamp it flat. Then I left outside to dry over a few days. I then removed the floorboards and used narrow batons and screwed these to the plywood to expose more of the shield to the air to dry an left for around a week. When I took off the batons it did distort a bit but overall i am v v pleased I love the repairs and one I have circled in red looks to be a to be gunshot round hole the boss has 3 repairs alone and there are 7 in total, this Beja shield would tell a great story and i actually really like this item even though the dhal was what I was after. The dhal was in a lot better condition and is in a lot better condition. I will take pictures when I can Thanks for comments and any idea on hide, Elephant, rhino or Hippo? Regards, Ken |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,258
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I wish you had before pictures, however, it looks like you did a wonderful job with a great shield! It looks a little dry, so I would add copious amounts of Pecards leather treatment on both sides and allow it to be absorbed into the shield for a couple of weeks and then gently rub off the excess.
I'll keep your recipe for the reclamation of warped shields for my next project. |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Ireland
Posts: 543
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Yes a pity i dd not take pictures before,
I taught it was going to be a right off of a job so I could see no point in reminding myself of what went wrong I will mock up what I did and take pictures for reference Regards Ken |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: France
Posts: 179
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Hi,
While the leather indeed looks like it should be nourished, I would personally recommend (pure) neatsfoot oil, it may darken the leather, but would be easier to apply, and doesn't contain wax or petroleum. |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: In the wee woods north of Napanee Ontario
Posts: 395
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I always am leery of adding anything to leather that softens it.
Old leather that is brittle tends to become soft and bits flake off with handling. Adding oils darkens the leather considerably but leather has no memory and does not retain shape well. I would suggest only Renaissance wax that is a surface treatment that does not soak deeply into the leather. It protects the surface from humidity and handling and does not darken leather nearly as much as oils do. I one did use oil on a very dry sword grip and the leather was rolling off in bits whenever you held it. The leather fibres over time deteriorate and no longer have their strength and can turn to dust. You can only revive modern leather to a degree, very old leather I've soaked in oils only to have them crack/break on WW1 saddle straps. It really depends if the leather was stored well or not that dictates its current condition. |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Ireland
Posts: 543
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I just looked up Neatsfoot oil and Pecards and got the following.
Neatsfoot oil is used as a conditioning, softening and preservative agent for leather. Then for Pecard they again mention in their website SUPPLE A combination of USP grade petroleum products and waxes, including beeswax, keep your leather supple and healthy…just like it’s been doing for all of our customers since 1902 I don't want to soften the leather, might this occur as per above on the product descriptions Thanks for interest Ken |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 436
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I've used Obenauf's leather preservative with some success. It restores the dried-out leather but doesn't render it soft and mushy.
Here's a link to part of their site, dealing with horse tack. While reins and such need to be supple, saddles need to retain dimensional integrity. This stuff seems to work well for both applications. It was also recommended to me for such items as pistol holsters, which need to retain their shape to properly function. Last edited by Ian; 3rd October 2020 at 03:43 AM. Reason: Sorry Bob--no links to commercial sites are allowed in discussion forums |
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,258
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I have used Pecards on many an African Shield or Indian Dhal to good effect.When the leather gets older and dry, it tends to get powdery areas The Pecards not only stabilizes these areas but preserves the rest of the leather.In painted Indian Dhals, it stops the flaking and restores the color to the painted surface.I use it on rayskin sword handles, straps,scabbards,etc. and I have never had a problem.I use the "Antique Pecards," product.
This is just my experience and should you try this product, you should do so sparingly until you can determine your statisfaction with the results. |
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