![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 | |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 674
|
![]() Quote:
I removed the hilts from the Maguindanao and Maranao ones. I obtained the original hilt as-is for the Maguindanao (it was quite sturdy), but I had to replace the rope wrap of the Maranao's (it was falling apart). I opted to have a common rattan wrap done by a local artisan to replace the textile wrap. Although in the future, if I were to do this again- ideally I should have learned how to weave the rope wrap myself =) I used slow-setting epoxy. While tree sap would be ideal to be faithful to the piece's original state, I plan to cut with these blades a lot; epoxy would give me additional confidence and peace of mind to use the blades regularly. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 90
|
![]()
~polished monocle starts from right eye~
Epoxy? My dear man, I do hope that this is some kind of attempt at a joke... |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,018
|
![]()
If you’ve seen the rigors that Xasterix puts his swords thru during test cuttings you’d see why he uses epoxy in place of pitch 🙂
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,280
|
![]()
Epoxy, even the quick setting epoxy, works well for these. Like pitch, you can take the hilts off if you heat the blade (though it takes a little longer).
I use both pitch and epoxy for Moro pieces for years. No problems here. ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|