LUMAD BAGOBO BOLO

kronckew · 19th May 2020, 08:58 AM

I'd not over-clean the blade. Black rust is 'good' stable iron oxide, Fe3O4, and adds character & provenance. Red rust, Fe2O3, is the cancerous version that should be cleaned off. If any Black is loose, lightly sand or brush it off, in any case neutralize it with a baking soda solution after a vinegar etch. Then use a good oil on it, like Ballistol.

Ian · 19th May 2020, 02:53 PM

Yves:

Your blade may well be T'boli based on the shape. Their tok, or more precisely kafilan, often have these shaped blades. If so, then you are in luck because the T'boli blades are generally very good and renowned for being well tempered, sharp and durable. The hilts on the swords shown in Detlef's post (#2) are most likely Tagakaolu/Kaolu or from a closely related group (e.g., Kalagan). Your incomplete scabbard is not typical of Bagobo work, and could well be B'laan (but hard to tell from the pictures).

The short tang is not necessarily broken. Close up pictures would help, but I think these relatively short tangs tend to be the norm. I've only disassembled a few Lumad hilts, so I really have no good idea of the length of their tangs.

Ian.

Sajen · 19th May 2020, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kronckew

I'd not over-clean the blade. Black rust is 'good' stable iron oxide, Fe3O4, and adds character & provenance.

Hello Wayne,

I kindly disagree at this point with you, rust is oxidation and oxidation is always active. But you are correct, black corrosion is slow but still active. Therefore I would remove this rust spots. Like said, a longer bath in a vinegar solution will do the job.

Regards,
Detlef

Battara · 20th May 2020, 02:06 AM

I don't know Detlef, I kind of agree with Wayne. I have noticed that black oxidation is much more stable and have not had problems with it for years.

Now there is a point, however, that in order to get a proper etch for a pattern, you do have to remove the black oxidation as well.

Sajen · 21st May 2020, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Battara

I don't know Detlef, I kind of agree with Wayne. I have noticed that black oxidation is much more stable and have not had problems with it for years.

Now there is a point, however, that in order to get a proper etch for a pattern, you do have to remove the black oxidation as well.

Hi Jose,

It's chemistry, iron oxidation is always active, like said before, black oxidation isn't very fast but still active. It's different as aluminium oxidation which built a protection against further oxidation.

A proper etch of the blade could be worthwhile.

Best regards,
Detlef

19th May 2020, 08:58 AM	#1
kronckew Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Room 101, Glos. UK Posts: 4,249	I'd not over-clean the blade. Black rust is 'good' stable iron oxide, Fe3O4, and adds character & provenance. Red rust, Fe2O3, is the cancerous version that should be cleaned off. If any Black is loose, lightly sand or brush it off, in any case neutralize it with a baking soda solution after a vinegar etch. Then use a good oil on it, like Ballistol.

19th May 2020, 02:53 PM	#2
Ian Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: The Aussie Bush Posts: 4,470	Yves: Your blade may well be T'boli based on the shape. Their tok, or more precisely kafilan, often have these shaped blades. If so, then you are in luck because the T'boli blades are generally very good and renowned for being well tempered, sharp and durable. The hilts on the swords shown in Detlef's post (#2) are most likely Tagakaolu/Kaolu or from a closely related group (e.g., Kalagan). Your incomplete scabbard is not typical of Bagobo work, and could well be B'laan (but hard to tell from the pictures). The short tang is not necessarily broken. Close up pictures would help, but I think these relatively short tangs tend to be the norm. I've only disassembled a few Lumad hilts, so I really have no good idea of the length of their tangs. Ian.

20th May 2020, 02:06 AM	#4
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,325	I don't know Detlef, I kind of agree with Wayne. I have noticed that black oxidation is much more stable and have not had problems with it for years. Now there is a point, however, that in order to get a proper etch for a pattern, you do have to remove the black oxidation as well.