New Moro kris

Ian · 12th February 2020, 09:04 AM

Apolaki:

I would remove the blade from vinegar at this point. Rinse it thoroughly in plain water. Wipe it dry and apply a light oil. From here on I would use sand paper only. Start with nothing coarser than 200 grit. Then move to 400 grit and then 600 grit. Wipe the blade regularly with a clean cloth to remove residual particles. Rubbing with abrasive paper will remove any remaining oxidation and polishes the blade to a smooth finish.

After removing the blade from the vinegar it should be apparent if you have any lamination, hardened edge, etc. Signs of these will disappear as you polish the blade. If you wish to show those features again, you will need to etch the blade again.

First, clean off all the oil on the blade (I use propyl alcohol). Then for final etching, I prefer diluted ferric chloride solution although lemon juice works well also. (If the etch looks brown you have left it too long--repolish the blade and start again). After obtaining the desired features, neutralize the acid with baking soda, rinse thoroughly with clean water, dry gently, and again apply a light coating of oil to the blade. Instead of oil you could use a silicon-based wax--I use Renaissance Wax.

Ian

kai · 12th February 2020, 11:45 AM

A lot of reasonable advice - we need pics/close-ups though to fine-tune any recommendations!

kai · 12th February 2020, 12:15 PM

Hello Apolaki,

Please verify whether the thin metal strips (which attach the clamps to the hilt) run under the grip binding or entering into the wooden core of the hilt (together with the tang and resin).

If the latter, heating the blade will allow you to remove the hilt and then the clamps (and reassemble everything after restoration). This will greatly ease working on the blade!

If the former and bindings are tight, the metal strips can sometimes be removed from the clamps (tends to be tricky if at all possible) and the hilt/clamps removed, too.

Otherwise, you're out of luck and need to invest in lots of patience and elbow grease...

Regards,
Kai

12th February 2020, 09:04 AM	#1
Ian Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: The Aussie Bush Posts: 4,361	Apolaki: I would remove the blade from vinegar at this point. Rinse it thoroughly in plain water. Wipe it dry and apply a light oil. From here on I would use sand paper only. Start with nothing coarser than 200 grit. Then move to 400 grit and then 600 grit. Wipe the blade regularly with a clean cloth to remove residual particles. Rubbing with abrasive paper will remove any remaining oxidation and polishes the blade to a smooth finish. After removing the blade from the vinegar it should be apparent if you have any lamination, hardened edge, etc. Signs of these will disappear as you polish the blade. If you wish to show those features again, you will need to etch the blade again. First, clean off all the oil on the blade (I use propyl alcohol). Then for final etching, I prefer diluted ferric chloride solution although lemon juice works well also. (If the etch looks brown you have left it too long--repolish the blade and start again). After obtaining the desired features, neutralize the acid with baking soda, rinse thoroughly with clean water, dry gently, and again apply a light coating of oil to the blade. Instead of oil you could use a silicon-based wax--I use Renaissance Wax. Ian

12th February 2020, 11:45 AM	#2
kai Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 3,255	A lot of reasonable advice - we need pics/close-ups though to fine-tune any recommendations!

12th February 2020, 12:15 PM	#3
kai Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 3,255	Hello Apolaki, Please verify whether the thin metal strips (which attach the clamps to the hilt) run under the grip binding or entering into the wooden core of the hilt (together with the tang and resin). If the latter, heating the blade will allow you to remove the hilt and then the clamps (and reassemble everything after restoration). This will greatly ease working on the blade! If the former and bindings are tight, the metal strips can sometimes be removed from the clamps (tends to be tricky if at all possible) and the hilt/clamps removed, too. Otherwise, you're out of luck and need to invest in lots of patience and elbow grease... Regards, Kai