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Old 7th August 2019, 09:45 PM   #1
DaveS
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Kai: Iv'e never really noticed what % strength there is on the bottle (actually the can). I have used it for many years and for me anyway it has always given me the best results without diluting it at all. Also unlike ferric chloride, if you happen to get it on silver it won't turn the silver black. As long as you neutralize with baking soda and oil, there should be no later corrosion. At least that has been my experience. Ferric Chloride to me is the WORST acid one can use to etch. It always seemed to give my blades a slightly greenish tinge, maybe because it is a compound of chlorine.........anyway that's what iv'e always thought, rightly or wrongly. Also the Phosphoric gives a nice black on silver contrast. I noticed several years ago that one ingredient in both Pepsi and Coke is Phosphoric Acid. Someday i'm going to try to etch a blade with some Pepsi or Coke. Will let everyone know how it comes out. If it doesn't work at least i'll have something to drink.
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Old 7th August 2019, 11:49 PM   #2
Battara
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For me ferric chloride is the closest to the vinegar and fruit etching in color. Green? - weird......not happened to me, only browns and yellows.

Also I totally agree with the rubbing down with baking soda after the etch - this stops the continued etch and prevents eventual corrosion post etch.
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Old 8th August 2019, 06:33 AM   #3
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Hello Jose,

Quote:
I totally agree with the rubbing down with baking soda after the etch - this stops the continued etch and prevents eventual corrosion post etch.
Sure, with most acids a neutralization step is crucial. However, the main problem with ferric chloride is that it promotes corrosion even after full neutralization: any remaining chloride ions will act as catalyst for rusting. Forever! With many antique blades removing all chloride by rinsing/soaking is a real challenge if at all feasible!

BTW, the beauty of acetic acid (vinegar) is that any traces will evaporate upon gently heating the blade.

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Kai
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Old 8th August 2019, 06:56 AM   #4
Battara
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Hi Kai. I have not had the problem. I guess by washing it off first, then rubber it with baking soda, then drying the blade off by rubbing, and then oil.
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Old 8th August 2019, 06:55 AM   #5
kai
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Hello Jose,

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For me ferric chloride is the closest to the vinegar and fruit etching in color. Green? - weird......not happened to me, only browns and yellows.
Those browns and yellows are active rust - I’d be weary about any of these warmer colors!

I suspect that varying (technical) qualities of ferric chloride as well as different usages and possibly recycled etchant are responsible for variable results.

Greenish colors may result from copper dissolved in the etchant by contact with brass, etc.


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Kai
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Old 8th August 2019, 05:27 PM   #6
kai
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Hello Dave,

I reckon such a stock lasts for ages - could you possibly check the concentration of a fresh can if you get a chance at a store or so, please? I’m sure it’s not concentrated phosphoric acid - probably 10% or less.

The acid in coke is much more diluted - I’m sure it will work but requiring much longer exposure and the heaps of sugar may make this a quite sticky affair!

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Kai
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Old 8th August 2019, 10:34 PM   #7
DaveS
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Yeah i was thinking the same thing......That it would be so diluted that it would take some time to work. And yes, i imagine it would be a sugary mess if it worked at all. I just went out into the shop and looked on the bottle to see what % it was. Guess what!!. Looked all over, every where and it says nothing about what strength it is. I thought that was required. Looked three times and nothing. When i get the chance i'll get a different brand and will look again.
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Old 9th August 2019, 04:30 AM   #8
Rick
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There's always instant coffee paste to try.
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Old 9th August 2019, 02:51 PM   #9
mross
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If any of this is tried please post results what ever they may be. I would suggest using a salon type hair dryer or a heatgun on low-med rather than a torch to heat it up.
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