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#1 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,339
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When I'm finally finished with the rust treatment I'll post the blade before I try an etch with super strong coffee. Right now the blade is in a heavy coating of De-corroder wrapped in plastic wrap to keep it from drying out too quickly.
Something occurred to me about the subject under discussion: there are many variations in quality of steel and pamor material; would this difference not interfere with a consistent result in whatever rust treatment is involved? /5/20 Well, here are pictures of this blade after treatment with Metal De-corroder (a Renaissance product) a hot rinse and before any etching has been attempted. ![]() It was quite crusty and the color difference was not aparrent; no before pics, sorry. ![]() Last edited by Rick; 20th May 2018 at 04:37 PM. |
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#2 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,339
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Bump
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 290
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Would be interesting to see your post-etching results, Rick.
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#4 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,339
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Yes it would; if I had anything that could produce a warangan type of etch.
![]() I'm reasonably happy just to see a contrast between the metals; the EPA doesn't want me to possess arsenic trioxide. ![]() |
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#5 | |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,218
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#6 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,339
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I bought a small jar of instant and made a paste, applied it to the blade and all that happened was an increase in contrast between the pamor and the core.
![]() Not really worth belaboring the board with another tombak picture.. |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 671
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Hello everyone
The only way to remove the oxide is the electrolysis and the zinc-soda method, without attacking the base metal (iron or steel). It is the method used in the museums (besides the ultra-sound) and in the objects recovered from the sea Affectionately. Fernando |
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