Twist Core "18th Century" Moro Kris/Kalis

[kai]

Hello Fernando,

Presenting the blade after etching.

Thanks a lot for the update and your efforts!

This really is a sweet kris! I am amazed how weak the contrast seems to be though - haven't seen such an example before. The twistcore is certainly done with iron alloys of different composition and it's kinda weird that the etch doesn't pick it up.

Did you do some gentle repolishing before the etch? Considering the somewhat blotchy appearance of the steel core (slorok in Jawa parlor), I believe there is a chance that the etch did not work properly, possibly due to incomplete degreasing and perhaps polishing up with a power tool at the hands of an earlier owner?

A perfect etch often needs several attempts. I agree that one wants to be very gentle with this beauty though!

Regards,
Kai

[Sajen]

Agree with Kai in all points! Very nice kris and a shame that the twisted area don't show more contrast after etching.

Regards,
Detlef

[CCUAL]

I have tried etching my blades using the same method vinegar and lemon and I got the same result as yours. Try using a stronger solution like PCB, it works just fine for me specially on those stubborn Barong patterns that are hard to etch, it might work on your beautiful 18th C Kris. I am attaching two of mine that was PCB etched. I the first one had a very grayish dull pattern with vinegar and lemon, when I switched to PCB it gave me the pattern that I was looking for. Good luck.

[Rick]

I have one of these with the same pattern; some of you are using it as an avatar.
What chemical solution did you use to etch it?

I had a bit more success with ferric chloride (circuit board etchant) diluted with distilled water.
I used to get it at Radio Shack here in the states, but they are going, or have gone out of business.

I've always wondered if Stop Bath (used in B&W photography) would work; it's about the strongest solution of acetic acid that I know of.

[David]

Originally Posted by Rick

I've always wondered if Stop Bath (used in B&W photography) would work; it's about the strongest solution of acetic acid that I know of.

hmmm...and i'm a photographer and never actually considered that. Must do some experimenting.
BTW Fernando, i don't know if i have mentioned this before, but your photography skills are quite good. Are you a professional or just an advanced amateur?

[Rick]

When I etched my 'archaic' kris I used cotton swabs to keep the etchant within the bounds of the engraving. This allowed me to concentrate my efforts on the center without darkening the edges too much.

[F. de Luzon]

Originally Posted by David

hmmm...and i'm a photographer and never actually considered that. Must do some experimenting.
BTW Fernando, i don't know if i have mentioned this before, but your photography skills are quite good. Are you a professional or just an advanced amateur?

Thank you, David! I am very flattered. I classify myself as an advanced amateur. I just love taking pictures.

[kai]

Hello Rick,

I've always wondered if Stop Bath (used in B&W photography) would work; it's about the strongest solution of acetic acid that I know of.

You can buy glacial acetic acid which is close to 100% - quite nasty stuff, actually.

I believe I did try acetic acid concentrations well into the range of photographic stopping solutions for etching but did not observe any major effect of concentration on the final staining. Only the etching time gets shorter and shorter with increasing concentration and so does the risk of unnecessary corrosion: Thus, not preferable in my book...

Ferric chloride certainly is a stronger stain. However, it is essential to completely neutralize it after etching and also to rinse the blade extensively since any remaining chloride ions (i. e. salt after successful neutralisation) will result in new rust developing. With a porous blade like old twistcore both, effective neutralisation and rinsing, poses quite a challenge!

Regards,
Kai

[Rick]

I don't think I've ever seen one of these old cores that really has a stark contrast that 'pops'.

[Sajen]

Originally Posted by Rick

I don't think I've ever seen one of these old cores that really has a stark contrast that 'pops'.

Hello Rick,

but it should look like the from you or CCUAL shown examples, by all three blades the twist core is good to to seen.

Regards,
Detlef

[Battara]

I'm with Rick, with same results on my early twist cores.