![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 | |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Aussie Bush
Posts: 4,396
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 2,145
|
![]()
Hi Ian,
It's very interesting. Can you tell me more about this one? The tip is different, but the whole sword is very similar. Best, Kubur |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 | |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Aussie Bush
Posts: 4,396
|
![]() Quote:
The one you show has some important differences. First, it has a prominent and wide fuller running the length of the blade. That excludes the Shan as the makers of this blade because they don't use fullers on their swords or knives. Second, as you noted, the tip is concave and not convex like the two examples I showed above. And lastly, the hilt is a little different also, having longer brass ferrules, a shorter ray skin grip, and a small bulbous protrusion on the pommel. The scabbard has been wrapped with fairly flat bands of copper alloy (brass?) and at the throat the piece has scalloped edges suggesting a Chinese influence. What you have is a much more common style of Burmese sword, which typically has a concave or flat tip. This one might be Burman in manufacture but more likely, I think, the blade originated in Yunnan. The HuSa, for example, make similar blades and have done for centuries. The Burmans often imported blades, so that may be the case here. Similar styles of swords are seen among the Kachin too, but they are usually straight rather than curved like this one. The presence of large fullers on either side of the blade would reduce the blade's weight considerably, and make the sword lighter and less "blade heavy" in the hand. The two above are deliberately made "blade heavy" for a single-handed chopping action. I think the sword you show likely was made for a different style of fighting. Your sword was probably made in the late 19th C or early 20th C. Ian. Last edited by Ian; 1st April 2017 at 04:00 PM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 2,145
|
![]()
Thank you very much Ian
So precise, detailed and informative |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 865
|
![]()
Hello Ian. Thank you for sharing your sword and info. I am Curious Ian, how thick is the spine at the tip?
Last edited by Nathaniel; 4th April 2017 at 03:32 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 | |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Aussie Bush
Posts: 4,396
|
![]() Quote:
The blade is just over 1/8 inch thick at the spine as it starts to bend towards the tip. Ian. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 865
|
![]()
Thanks Ian, so just over 3 mm. I always think it's interesting to know the thickness at forte, middle and towards the tip before it goes to the final point. And also the point of balance.
Last edited by Nathaniel; 5th April 2017 at 02:35 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|