F. de Luzon's Moro Kris Collection

[Ian]

de Luzon:

That's a very good etch that you achieved, and a very unusual pattern that emerged. It's hard to know if the creator of the blade intended it to have such an effect, but some of these guys were really talented at producing specific effects and it's quite possible that this was the intended outcome. Perhaps Roland or one of our other metallurgists can speak to the way this effect was created.

Ian.

[Sajen]

What you see is the microcrystalline structure of the metal. It get visible by the etchant you used. By an other etchant it wouldn't be visible like this.

Best regards,
Detlef

[F. de Luzon]

Originally Posted by Sajen

What you see is the microcrystalline structure of the metal. It get visible by the etchant you used. By an other etchant it wouldn't be visible like this.

Best regards,
Detlef

Thanks for your comments, Ian and Detlef!

Detlef, I used white cane vinegar (sukang puti) to etch the blade. I was just trying to make the contrast stronger between the metals when the pattern emerged. I felt like I was looking at stars when I wiped off the oxidized metal because of the way it sparkled. But I was also concerned that I may have ruined the blade. Anyway, it looks so much better in person.

F. de Luzon

[kai]

I agree that the etch seems perfectly ok - you often see these crystalline structures once the polish is done nicely and the etching accentuates the details of the clean metal surface.

I prefer to use industrial acetic acid because its strength is exactly known and can be diluted for routine use (more reproducible). The advantage of AA being volatile is that it can be completely removed via heating the blade and that it tends to also work on rust in crevices (it helps long-term preservation to remove all active rust). This can lead to some porosity of the blade and you start to see this with the narrow pamor band on each side. IMHO this is not a problem but I'd avoid to etch more (repolishing and re-etching are always an option if the surface gets too rough from over-etching). After a thorough oiling, you can go for sealing with microcristalline wax (which can also be used to close the larger pores if deemed preferable).

Regards,
Kai

[F. de Luzon]

Originally Posted by kai

I agree that the etch seems perfectly ok - you often see these crystalline structures once the polish is done nicely and the etching accentuates the details of the clean metal surface.

I prefer to use industrial acetic acid because its strength is exactly known and can be diluted for routine use (more reproducible). The advantage of AA being volatile is that it can be completely removed via heating the blade and that it tends to also work on rust in crevices (it helps long-term preservation to remove all active rust). This can lead to some porosity of the blade and you start to see this with the narrow pamor band on each side. IMHO this is not a problem but I'd avoid to etch more (repolishing and re-etching are always an option if the surface gets too rough from over-etching). After a thorough oiling, you can go for sealing with microcristalline wax (which can also be used to close the larger pores if deemed preferable).

Regards,
Kai

Thanks for the tips, Kai. I will keep them in mind next time I etch a blade. Much appreciated!

Regards,

F. de Luzon

[Sajen]

Originally Posted by F. de Luzon

But I was also concerned that I may have ruined the blade. Anyway, it looks so much better in person.

Hi F. d. Luzon,

don't worry, the outcome is very nice, the blade isn't ruined but look much better as before. It's a nice piece and you have given it the best care!

Regards,
Detlef

[F. de Luzon]

Originally Posted by Sajen

Hi F. d. Luzon,

don't worry, the outcome is very nice, the blade isn't ruined but look much better as before. It's a nice piece and you have given it the best care!

Regards,
Detlef

Thanks Detlef!

Regards from Manila,

F. de Luzon