Varnished items from older collections.

A. G. Maisey · 25th March 2016, 12:19 AM

Varnish and shellac removal depends on what the lac was mixed with to make the finished product.

In old "classic" finishes methylated spirits will mostly remove the stuff. Metho & 0000 steel wool, then a hand rub with baby oil.

Newer finishes might need acetone, but the old stuff just wipes off with metho.

estcrh · 25th March 2016, 06:15 AM

What would you recommend for this yatagan which is coated with some type of clear lacquer. The hilt seems to be niello.

Ian · 25th March 2016, 06:35 AM

estcrh:

This might be a silicone wax product. "Antiquewax," a polish for antique furniture, has been used by some people to produce a shine on the metal and slow down oxidation, and it works fairly well. There are similar products sold specifically for blades. Some folks have even used silicone car polish but that is too shiny and thick for my liking.

Once on, it is not easy to remove the silicone finish. I have found an industrial solvent, methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), is fairly good. I apply it with a rag several times and wipe off the residue. The fumes are quite intoxicating and make one feel dizzy, so be sure that you do any stripping in a well ventilated area and away from heating sources.

I treat all of these solvents as highly toxic and potentially flammable/explosive. Impermeable gloves and eye protection are a must and avoid exposures via breathing or skin contact as much as possible--I do no more than 5-10 minutes stripping at a time and take a complete break for 30 minutes or so without breathing the fumes. Dispose of the cleaning rags carefully (not in the general trash)--I burn mine in a wood stove rather than throw them away.

Good luck!

Ian.

P.S. Use an organic solvent only on metal surfaces. Not on wood or other organic materials. Solvents can seriously damage these materials.

estcrh · 25th March 2016, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian

estcrh:

This might be a silicone wax product. "Antiquewax," a polish for antique furniture,........................................ ..................I have found an industrial solvent, methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), is fairly good. I apply it with a rag several times and wipe off the residue. The fumes are quite intoxicating and make one feel dizzy, so be sure that you do any stripping in a well ventilated area and away from heating sources.

Thanks Ian, I will try this on a small area first.

A. G. Maisey · 25th March 2016, 07:32 AM

Roland, Post #2

With apologies, I don't think I can take credit for that advice Roland.

25th March 2016, 12:19 AM	#1
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,015	Varnish and shellac removal depends on what the lac was mixed with to make the finished product. In old "classic" finishes methylated spirits will mostly remove the stuff. Metho & 0000 steel wool, then a hand rub with baby oil. Newer finishes might need acetone, but the old stuff just wipes off with metho.

25th March 2016, 06:15 AM	#2
estcrh Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: USA Posts: 1,492	What would you recommend for this yatagan which is coated with some type of clear lacquer. The hilt seems to be niello. Attached Images

25th March 2016, 06:35 AM	#3
Ian Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: The Aussie Bush Posts: 4,399	estcrh: This might be a silicone wax product. "Antiquewax," a polish for antique furniture, has been used by some people to produce a shine on the metal and slow down oxidation, and it works fairly well. There are similar products sold specifically for blades. Some folks have even used silicone car polish but that is too shiny and thick for my liking. Once on, it is not easy to remove the silicone finish. I have found an industrial solvent, methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), is fairly good. I apply it with a rag several times and wipe off the residue. The fumes are quite intoxicating and make one feel dizzy, so be sure that you do any stripping in a well ventilated area and away from heating sources. I treat all of these solvents as highly toxic and potentially flammable/explosive. Impermeable gloves and eye protection are a must and avoid exposures via breathing or skin contact as much as possible--I do no more than 5-10 minutes stripping at a time and take a complete break for 30 minutes or so without breathing the fumes. Dispose of the cleaning rags carefully (not in the general trash)--I burn mine in a wood stove rather than throw them away. Good luck! Ian. P.S. Use an organic solvent only on metal surfaces. Not on wood or other organic materials. Solvents can seriously damage these materials.

25th March 2016, 07:32 AM	#5
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,015	Roland, Post #2 With apologies, I don't think I can take credit for that advice Roland.