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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 5,503
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If there is no rivet hole under the langet, the unusual length of the blade is more likely to be explained by the loss of the distal part . Usually, khandas have a spoon-like widening of the tip and very often it is either rounded or triangular but with a very obtuse angle. Yours is quite sharp and fit for stabbing.
I think the sword was reworked. Whether it was during its active life, to preserve its fighting function, or much later on, to preserve it as a decorative item, I can't tell. Hell of a job you are going to have cleaning the rust.... |
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#2 |
Arms Historian
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Route 66
Posts: 10,190
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The great part about discussion is that exchange of ideas and observations expand the comprehension of the subject in working toward a more conclusive evaluation or better posed options.
I think Ariel makes good points here (no pun intended) regarding the blade. Though some examples were indeed shorter than others, this seems a bit shorter than those typically shown in references. The lack of the 'trunking' rivet holes at forte does seem significant, and reworking of the blade quite possible. The tip of this blade seems atypical toward either the 'spatulate' flare or the acute point of spear or other shapes usually seen on early khandas. It seems too 'rebated' for thrust however, and it seems that the swordsmanship of these times favored heavy chopping or slashing cuts instead. I would not have suspected paint in the blade patches, but not surprised between these old eyes and my less than high tech computer 'skills'(?). That is a relief though! and though I cannot imagine why paint would be there......it bolsters the value of that patination. If up to me, I would leave darkened patination alone as to me it adds to the historical demeanor of the sword. I am only for stabilizing active corrosion and any damage. As for the paint spots, remove or darken accordingly. |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ireland
Posts: 104
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Hi all
For the sake of completion of the information I have added two more pictures One of the tip which looks to be less than profesionally shaped I assume this gives credence for the spatula tip been re shaped The width at tip is 1 and 5/8 inch or 40 mm It would have no stabbing capability though I hope you can see the pronounced ridge on the blade I also have attached a photo of the handle to show what a work of art this once was I will clean the paint and the crud off the blade and see how it looks, leave well enough alone Is the mantra I tend to adopt and as the weapon has some age to it I will not ruin it If the blade is an original khanda middle ridge blade would anyone care to give a guesstimate on age Thanks again Ken |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 2,786
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Hi Ken,
You might try pineapple juice for cleaning the blade. It is VERY gentle but takes quite a while depending on the amount of rust to be removed. METHOD: Use a piece of plastic pipe of suitable diameter and length, capped and sealed at one end. Fill this with the juice and suspend the blade. After a few days remove blade and use very fine steel wool to remove loose rust. Repeat process 'til blade is clean. This method will of course also remove any rust in the "teeth" of the edge plates. I have used this method in the past with good success. By the way you can buy the juice cheaply at your local Supermarket. Stu |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 5,503
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What about WD-40 " Rust Remover Soak"?
Anybody here had any experience with it? |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ireland
Posts: 104
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I will have to have a good think about my next step as I do not want to remove the platina
Will pineapple juice strip back to clean metal or leave the brown in situ? I have looked up a few treads on the forum and hard to find a concencus of opinion. Regards Ken |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Austria
Posts: 1,906
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For removing rust, I use Picreator's Metal De-corroder. It however, removes all rust and oxidation down to the healthy base (so it also removes the patina). It is non-aggressive and environment-friendly, but is expensive.
However, before starting to clean the blade, consider carefully if it's worth the effort and the risk. ![]() |
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#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 2,786
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![]() Quote:
It is a while since I last used this method but seem to remember that the metal came up quite clean, so it is likely that patina could be removed, BUT the rust on your blade looks quite thick so what do you class as "patina"? Stu |
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#9 | |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,336
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![]() Quote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfczxBWJuNg#t=36 |
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,242
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Here is the manufacturer:
http://www.cleanlaser.de/wEnglish/pr...anchor=2110009 |
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