Philippine Spearhead?

Timo Nieminen · 9th January 2016, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobT

The blade doesn't look robust enough to be a combat spearhead.

From the photo, it looks easily robust enough for a fighting spear. How thick is the blade at the "waist" near the point? (I think 4mm would be thick enough; under 2mm would make me wonder if it's decorative.)

RobT · 10th January 2016, 05:17 PM

Battara & Rick,
Thanks for the heads up about the tangs. A further search online shows that what I originally thought were sockets are quite likely ferrules.
Timo,
My micrometer (Starrett) gives a thickness at the flared area just below the tip (I think that's what you mean as the waist) of .077" (1.96 mm) which is a tad less than 5/16" (.078125). The thickest area of the blade (at the base) is .124" (3.15 mm) which is a tiny bit less than 1/8" (.125). The blade is under your 2 mm minimum but it doesn't look very decorative. Could it be for hunting something like wild pig?
Sincerely,
RobT

Timo Nieminen · 10th January 2016, 08:50 PM

My usual rule-of-thumb is that if the tip of a weapon is thinner than 2mm for a few inches/5cm or more, it's designed with cutting in mind, and sacrifices strength in thrusting to improve cutting.

To make a spear with a cutting-focussed tip strikes me as unusual. But being able to cut well and easily with a fighting spear is a Good Thing. Also good for the head to be light, which also encourages thin. (It's easy to get "light" by making the head small, but a long blade is also good on a fighting spear.)

From a functional viewpoint, having almost parallel edges as one approaches the tip, and then an abrupt and short taper to the point, works with thin quite well. The width near the tip gives strength, and allows a thin tip. The profile of the blade might be functional design, rather than just fashion. (Compare with flared tips on swords that become very thin near the tip, like oxtail dao, the British 1796 light cavalry sword, many falchions, etc.)

There are cut-and-thrust swords made for the battlefield that have tips less than 2mm thick for the last few inches. Usually not much below 2mm (more purely cutting swords can approach 1mm), so comparable with this spearhead.

(I don't know what the local wild pigs are like. For wild pigs here, and in some other places, you probably want something quite robust. Perhaps more robust than you'd take to a fight.)

RobT · 12th January 2016, 01:32 AM

Timo,
Thanks so much for sticking with this and giving such a good explanation. The spearhead will join my budiak and my Masai lion spear as a spearhead in good standing.
Sincerely,
RobT

10th January 2016, 05:17 PM	#2
RobT Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 550	Thickness & Tangs Battara & Rick, Thanks for the heads up about the tangs. A further search online shows that what I originally thought were sockets are quite likely ferrules. Timo, My micrometer (Starrett) gives a thickness at the flared area just below the tip (I think that's what you mean as the waist) of .077" (1.96 mm) which is a tad less than 5/16" (.078125). The thickest area of the blade (at the base) is .124" (3.15 mm) which is a tiny bit less than 1/8" (.125). The blade is under your 2 mm minimum but it doesn't look very decorative. Could it be for hunting something like wild pig? Sincerely, RobT

12th January 2016, 01:32 AM	#4
RobT Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 550	Now A Spear in Good Standing Timo, Thanks so much for sticking with this and giving such a good explanation. The spearhead will join my budiak and my Masai lion spear as a spearhead in good standing. Sincerely, RobT

10th January 2016, 08:50 PM	#3
Timo Nieminen Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 422	My usual rule-of-thumb is that if the tip of a weapon is thinner than 2mm for a few inches/5cm or more, it's designed with cutting in mind, and sacrifices strength in thrusting to improve cutting. To make a spear with a cutting-focussed tip strikes me as unusual. But being able to cut well and easily with a fighting spear is a Good Thing. Also good for the head to be light, which also encourages thin. (It's easy to get "light" by making the head small, but a long blade is also good on a fighting spear.) From a functional viewpoint, having almost parallel edges as one approaches the tip, and then an abrupt and short taper to the point, works with thin quite well. The width near the tip gives strength, and allows a thin tip. The profile of the blade might be functional design, rather than just fashion. (Compare with flared tips on swords that become very thin near the tip, like oxtail dao, the British 1796 light cavalry sword, many falchions, etc.) There are cut-and-thrust swords made for the battlefield that have tips less than 2mm thick for the last few inches. Usually not much below 2mm (more purely cutting swords can approach 1mm), so comparable with this spearhead. (I don't know what the local wild pigs are like. For wild pigs here, and in some other places, you probably want something quite robust. Perhaps more robust than you'd take to a fight.)