![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO area.
Posts: 1,632
|
![]()
MORE PICS.....
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO area.
Posts: 1,632
|
![]()
MORE PICS.........
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO area.
Posts: 1,632
|
![]()
STILL MORE.......
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO area.
Posts: 1,632
|
![]()
LAST ONE.........
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,120
|
![]()
I think they just varnished the whole thing, that's why the wire inlay and the but-cap are yellow.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 363
|
![]()
Or possibly Amber shellac over everything. See if it's soluble on alcohol. Is so, it's shellac. I would remove the lock and barrel and remove the bluing. Then re-rust it to whatever degree you're happy with. However, I would rust it several stages more than what's apparently necessary, to the point of fresh, crusty raised rust. It has to take hold of the iron for my treatment to work.
As I posted somewhere earlier, when he rust is heavy enough, completely immerse in boiling water. This will convert the red bad rust into a stable iron oxide, which is black. It will improve the looks immensely if you do it right. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 803
|
![]()
Rick,
I'm pretty sure David is right about the all-over varnish/shellac. If stripped off it won't look yellow anymore. Not kidding about a crude tumbler, were you!? Been a nice looking pistol and can look nice again. Keep us posted! Richard. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|