Barong again!

Shakethetrees · 13th November 2014, 09:20 PM

Progress report:

A couple of new images.

I found some line that closely resembled the remaining foot of original fiber used. I figured I needed about 100 inches of twisted, two strand line to complete the wrap. I next waxed each length to make it more manageable and twisted them together by hand a few inches at a time. This gives a slightly inconsistent rate of twist for a closer match to the original.

Next I made a ferrule of some old white brass that I rolled to the correct thickness. The lines were filed in by eye and quickly giving them a certain randomness that the old one has.

While wrapping the grip the wax helped maintain a tightness and evenness. There is less of a tendency to unravel than un-waxed line would have.

Once the line was in place I put a dab of hide glue inside the ferrule to lock in the loose end. A good push against the edge of the table to seat everything into place, put it down, walk away for a day or so.

Next the blade tang was heated to a high red heat for about the first inch. It was plunged into the original resin full depth and propped up to cool off in correct alignment. I also made it a point to leave a bit of the line loose beneath the ferrule that I trapped in the liquid resin for added security.

Next, the scabbard break was cleaned of any dirt or gunk and hide glue applied. It was clamped and secured. A jig needed to be made due to the curving asymmetrical shape of the scabbard. Left overnight to dry, with the AC turned down to 65 degrees to pull out any ambient humidity.

Once dry I scraped a slight inconsistency from the backside and did a little artificial aging, using cigar ash and several different waxes.

Thanks to several images posted by members, I now know where I plan to go with the scabbard tip. Everything is glued in place, still needing a bit of carving.

Once I finish I will post some final images.

Any comments are welcome and encouraged!

Sajen · 14th November 2014, 05:50 PM

Hello Shakethetrees,

very good work until now! We both have a barong restauration project! Do you plan to colour the binding black? I think that it was originally black. And do you plan also to attach a MOP plate at the foot of scabbard? I ask because I think that there was one before it break away. Personally I would clean the wood of the scabbard carefully with very fine steel wool to get out the grain of the wood. I am curious to see the finished work.

Regards,
Detlef

Shakethetrees · 14th November 2014, 10:25 PM

Detlef,

Thank you for your comments!

The original color of the grip wrapping is very close to the replacement. It was some type of fiber that was just peeled away from a vine or long stem of some kind. I have about a foot of it left. I examined it under a microscope to make the replacement as close to it in size, color, technique as possible.

Once I cut out and carve the scabbard tip I will play around with the finish. Matching new wood and old can be quite tricky, but I might have a few tricks up my sleeve!

The last thing I plan on doing will be to make a M.O.P. tip overlay. Before I consider this I need to get the form right and determine the decorative engraving.

As luck would have it, the existing engraving is not very masterful, so I might be right in my league with that!

13th November 2014, 09:20 PM	#1
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	Progress report: A couple of new images. I found some line that closely resembled the remaining foot of original fiber used. I figured I needed about 100 inches of twisted, two strand line to complete the wrap. I next waxed each length to make it more manageable and twisted them together by hand a few inches at a time. This gives a slightly inconsistent rate of twist for a closer match to the original. Next I made a ferrule of some old white brass that I rolled to the correct thickness. The lines were filed in by eye and quickly giving them a certain randomness that the old one has. While wrapping the grip the wax helped maintain a tightness and evenness. There is less of a tendency to unravel than un-waxed line would have. Once the line was in place I put a dab of hide glue inside the ferrule to lock in the loose end. A good push against the edge of the table to seat everything into place, put it down, walk away for a day or so. Next the blade tang was heated to a high red heat for about the first inch. It was plunged into the original resin full depth and propped up to cool off in correct alignment. I also made it a point to leave a bit of the line loose beneath the ferrule that I trapped in the liquid resin for added security. Next, the scabbard break was cleaned of any dirt or gunk and hide glue applied. It was clamped and secured. A jig needed to be made due to the curving asymmetrical shape of the scabbard. Left overnight to dry, with the AC turned down to 65 degrees to pull out any ambient humidity. Once dry I scraped a slight inconsistency from the backside and did a little artificial aging, using cigar ash and several different waxes. Thanks to several images posted by members, I now know where I plan to go with the scabbard tip. Everything is glued in place, still needing a bit of carving. Once I finish I will post some final images. Any comments are welcome and encouraged! Attached Images

14th November 2014, 05:50 PM	#2
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 9,646	Hello Shakethetrees, very good work until now! We both have a barong restauration project! Do you plan to colour the binding black? I think that it was originally black. And do you plan also to attach a MOP plate at the foot of scabbard? I ask because I think that there was one before it break away. Personally I would clean the wood of the scabbard carefully with very fine steel wool to get out the grain of the wood. I am curious to see the finished work. Regards, Detlef

14th November 2014, 10:25 PM	#3
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	Detlef, Thank you for your comments! The original color of the grip wrapping is very close to the replacement. It was some type of fiber that was just peeled away from a vine or long stem of some kind. I have about a foot of it left. I examined it under a microscope to make the replacement as close to it in size, color, technique as possible. Once I cut out and carve the scabbard tip I will play around with the finish. Matching new wood and old can be quite tricky, but I might have a few tricks up my sleeve! The last thing I plan on doing will be to make a M.O.P. tip overlay. Before I consider this I need to get the form right and determine the decorative engraving. As luck would have it, the existing engraving is not very masterful, so I might be right in my league with that!