Igorot/Bontok Shield

Shakethetrees · 11th October 2014, 08:31 PM

I don't have any experience with olive oil, but the research done some years back and read to the Ameircan Institute for Conservation (conservation-us.com) showed that linseed oil, in time, blackens wood irreversibly.

It leaves a great finish on gunstocks, but in time it degrades and damages the surface.

On ethnographic materials I would not use any oils. A light wax, if anything. Renaissance Wax has been the go-to for museums world wide for decades and has proven to be the most benign and is easily removable.

drac2k · 12th October 2014, 02:42 PM

Based upon my own experience of 20 years of using this combination of boiled linseed oil and lemon oil extract, I have not found that to be the case . I have even used it on old furniture to revitalize the wood, however what might be pleasing to me, might not be to someone else, so this is only a suggestion and a small test area should be applied first to determine if it has the desired result you crave.

Nonoy Tan · 13th October 2014, 05:34 AM

Quote:

I don't have any experience with olive oil, but the research done some years back and read to the Ameircan Institute for Conservation (conservation-us.com) showed that linseed oil, in time, blackens wood irreversibly.

It leaves a great finish on gunstocks, but in time it degrades and damages the surface.

On ethnographic materials I would not use any oils. A light wax, if anything. Renaissance Wax has been the go-to for museums world wide for decades and has proven to be the most benign and is easily removable.

I prefer not to use any substance that is irreversible. My shields will likely outlive me and so my personal preference on their appearance (for the purpose of display) does not affect my decision on matters of conservation.

Shakethetrees · 13th October 2014, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drac2k

Based upon my own experience of 20 years of using this combination of boiled linseed oil and lemon oil extract, I have not found that to be the case . I have even used it on old furniture to revitalize the wood, however what might be pleasing to me, might not be to someone else, so this is only a suggestion and a small test area should be applied first to determine if it has the desired result you crave.

The effects of this blackening might not be noticeable for eighty to a hundred years later. Linseed oil does put a great finish on wood, or else we would not be having this discussion.

What I am addressing here is something that falls into the "unintended consequences" category. Well meaning work, but nature, in the long run, not cooperating. I'm no chemist, but, we all know that organic substances do not remain stable over time, and that's the rub here. There's even a good quality petroleum based grease that was the gold standard for gun storage for years that, when applied following the directions, in about two or three years, will turn a brightly polished steel or iron surface a mottled grey! Once it reaches this stage, it appears to be stable, but, then again, in another twenty years, who knows? It changed once, why not again, but not in a way that one would be happy with.

I will look for this article, but since it was over twenty years ago, a lot of water has gone under the bridge, and we may be out of luck.

Sajen · 13th October 2014, 04:35 PM

I use linseed oil for wooden and also horn hilts and scabbards of my ethnograhic weapons even for the nice finish (yes, it make the wood/horn darker, see the different here: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...ighlight=luzon) and to oil the parts to prevent cracks and don't let become the oiled parts to dry. I don't see any risk by this, think about that many our weapons coming from very hot parts of the world. When a native has taken his weapon in hand he will oil it with his own sweat and remaining oil from food he has eaten before so all sorts of natural oil feeding the wood/horn or also ivory over decades and give it the so demanded patina. So why should linseed oil wrong for this parts?
But frankly said I never have oiled one of my shields.

Regards,
Detlef

Shakethetrees · 13th October 2014, 05:16 PM

Quote:

When a native has taken his weapon in hand he will oil it with his own sweat and remaining oil from food he has eaten before so all sorts of natural oil feeding the wood/horn or also ivory over decades and give it the so demanded patina. So why should linseed oil wrong for this parts?
But frankly said I never have oiled one of my shields.

Regards,
Detlef

This is based on the assumption that all oils are alike. Yes, the short term benefits of enlivening the wood (horn, ivory,or what have you) for most oils are the same, but the point I'm trying to make are the issues of long term changes.

Hand oils and the mild abrasion from use and handling that build up the patina most of us admire are not applied in one or two wet coats. It is built up slowly and incrementally over years.

On a similar note, when old leather has been treated with "feeding" applications, it is irreversibly changed for the worse. Dealers of antique leather items are, in the spirit of disclosure, listing these treatments so that collectors will know what they're getting into, and not return them later.

Once we begin to see the detrimental effects of oils and other "treatments", this can become the norm in this field as well, essentially devaluing the particular piece due to it being oiled or " fed".

When in doubt, do nothing. It's lasted this long without oil, why be proactive?

Sajen · 13th October 2014, 05:46 PM

Without beeing a chemist I am aware that oils could be very different so I write obove that all sorts of natural oil had feed the touched parts with it.

And I never "bath" it with oil but rub it with a damb cloth only. But agree full with you, "when in doubt, do nothing"!

Regards,
Detlef

VANDOO · 13th October 2014, 06:15 PM

FROM THE CURRENT STANDARDS FOR RESTORATION AND PRESERVATION THE ITEM SHOULD BE CAREFULLY CLEANED AND PUT AWAY IN A CAREFULLY CONTROLLED ENVIRONMENT IE. HUMIDITY, LIGHT, ECT. HANDLING ONLY WHEN ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY AND THEN WITH CLEAN WHITE GLOVES IN A CLIMATE CONTROLLED AREA. EVEN WHEN THIS IS ALWAYS FOLLOWED THE MATERIAL WILL DETERIORATE OVER TIME, THE MORE TIME THE MORE CHANGE. THIS IS ONE APPROACH BUT IS DIFFICULT TO SET UP FOR MOST OF US AND MANY OF US LIKE TO HAVE OUR ITEMS WHERE WE CAN SEE AND HANDLE THEM.
FROM A MUSEUMS CONSERVATORS VIEW ADDING ANYTHING TO A ITEM IS BAD. BUT LEATHER THAT IS FED WILL BE LESS LIKELY TO DRY OUT, SPLIT AND CRACK THAN UNTREATED LEATHER OVER TIME, ESPECIALLY IF IT IS MOVED AND HANDLED. ONCE LEATHER AND OTHER MATERIALS PASS A CERTAIN POINT RESTORATION IS NOT POSSIBLE AND A DECISION TO FIX IT PERMANENTLY WITH A ARTIFICIAL COATING OR ENCLOSE IT IN A CASE OR SOLID RESIN. IN THE PAST SUCH ITEMS WERE USUALLY DISCARDED ,LEATHER, PAPER, FABRIC, FEATHERS AND WOOD ARE ESPECIALLY FRAGILE AND OFTEN LOST. WHEN MATERIAL REACHES THAT POINT HANDLING OR OPEN DISPLAY WITHOUT FURTHER DAMAGE TO THE ITEM IS NOT POSSIBLE.
TRUE WHEN ADDING PRESERVATIVES THERE WILL BE A BUILD-UP OF RESIDUE OF OILS, POLISH OR WAX AND PERHAPS DUST MAY STICK WHICH WILL IN TURN ATTRACT MOISTURE. BUT IT WILL OFTEN PROLONG THE TIME WE CAN HANDLE AND OPENLY DISPLAY THE ITEMS. TO PROPERLY MAINTAIN THIS REGIMEN WILL INCREASE OUR HANDLING OF OUR COLLECTIONS SO MAY ADD A BIT OF WEAR AND HOPEFULLY ENJOYMENT TO OUR COLLECTION. MANY LIGHT COATS OF ANY PRESERVATIVE APPLIED OVER TIME IS MUCH BETTER THAN A HEAVY COAT SOAKING THE ITEM.
THIS WORLD WE LIVE IN IS HIGHLY CORROSIVE MORE THAN MOST PLANETS AS SO MUCH IS WATER AND SALT (THE UNIVERSAL SOLVENT). SO ITS NATURAL FOR ALL THINGS TO CHANGE REGARDLESS OF OUR BEST EFFORTS. IF YOU WANT PROOF LOOK AT OLD SCHOOL PICTURES AND THEN LOOK IN THE MIRROR

SO ITS BEST TO LEARN ALL YOU CAN ABOUT PRESERVATION AND RESTORATION AND CHART A COURSE YOU CAN FOLLOW AS NO ONE CAN MAKE YOUR CHOICES FOR YOU. WE ALL WANT TO PRESERVE THESE ITEMS AND HOPEFULLY PASS THEM ALONG IN AS GOOD OR BETTER SHAPE THAN WE OFTEN FIND THEM.

Robert · 15th October 2014, 11:50 PM

I would like to thank everyone for their help and opinions on how and what to do and not to do to help me in the preservation of this shield. As of this time I have only done a light cleaning with a small soft brush and canned air to try to clean it as much as possible without doing any damage to the wood. I did apply (to a small area on the back side of the shield) a small amount of ren wax that was absorbed almost instantly like a dry sponge soaking up water. I have done nothing sense. That said, I think that I will only do one more cleaning attempt using a cloth dampened with a little distilled water and Murphy's Oil Soap to try to remove the more stubborn dust build up. Thank you all again for your help and if anyone has any further information or advice that they would like to offer on this item it too would be greatly appreciated.

Best,
Robert

11th October 2014, 08:31 PM	#1
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	I don't have any experience with olive oil, but the research done some years back and read to the Ameircan Institute for Conservation (conservation-us.com) showed that linseed oil, in time, blackens wood irreversibly. It leaves a great finish on gunstocks, but in time it degrades and damages the surface. On ethnographic materials I would not use any oils. A light wax, if anything. Renaissance Wax has been the go-to for museums world wide for decades and has proven to be the most benign and is easily removable.

12th October 2014, 02:42 PM	#2
drac2k Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 1,255	Based upon my own experience of 20 years of using this combination of boiled linseed oil and lemon oil extract, I have not found that to be the case . I have even used it on old furniture to revitalize the wood, however what might be pleasing to me, might not be to someone else, so this is only a suggestion and a small test area should be applied first to determine if it has the desired result you crave.

13th October 2014, 04:35 PM	#5
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 9,164	I use linseed oil for wooden and also horn hilts and scabbards of my ethnograhic weapons even for the nice finish (yes, it make the wood/horn darker, see the different here: http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...ighlight=luzon) and to oil the parts to prevent cracks and don't let become the oiled parts to dry. I don't see any risk by this, think about that many our weapons coming from very hot parts of the world. When a native has taken his weapon in hand he will oil it with his own sweat and remaining oil from food he has eaten before so all sorts of natural oil feeding the wood/horn or also ivory over decades and give it the so demanded patina. So why should linseed oil wrong for this parts? But frankly said I never have oiled one of my shields. Regards, Detlef

13th October 2014, 05:46 PM	#7
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 9,164	Without beeing a chemist I am aware that oils could be very different so I write obove that all sorts of natural oil had feed the touched parts with it. And I never "bath" it with oil but rub it with a damb cloth only. But agree full with you, "when in doubt, do nothing"! Regards, Detlef

13th October 2014, 06:15 PM	#8
VANDOO (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: OKLAHOMA, USA Posts: 3,138	FROM THE CURRENT STANDARDS FOR RESTORATION AND PRESERVATION THE ITEM SHOULD BE CAREFULLY CLEANED AND PUT AWAY IN A CAREFULLY CONTROLLED ENVIRONMENT IE. HUMIDITY, LIGHT, ECT. HANDLING ONLY WHEN ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY AND THEN WITH CLEAN WHITE GLOVES IN A CLIMATE CONTROLLED AREA. EVEN WHEN THIS IS ALWAYS FOLLOWED THE MATERIAL WILL DETERIORATE OVER TIME, THE MORE TIME THE MORE CHANGE. THIS IS ONE APPROACH BUT IS DIFFICULT TO SET UP FOR MOST OF US AND MANY OF US LIKE TO HAVE OUR ITEMS WHERE WE CAN SEE AND HANDLE THEM. FROM A MUSEUMS CONSERVATORS VIEW ADDING ANYTHING TO A ITEM IS BAD. BUT LEATHER THAT IS FED WILL BE LESS LIKELY TO DRY OUT, SPLIT AND CRACK THAN UNTREATED LEATHER OVER TIME, ESPECIALLY IF IT IS MOVED AND HANDLED. ONCE LEATHER AND OTHER MATERIALS PASS A CERTAIN POINT RESTORATION IS NOT POSSIBLE AND A DECISION TO FIX IT PERMANENTLY WITH A ARTIFICIAL COATING OR ENCLOSE IT IN A CASE OR SOLID RESIN. IN THE PAST SUCH ITEMS WERE USUALLY DISCARDED ,LEATHER, PAPER, FABRIC, FEATHERS AND WOOD ARE ESPECIALLY FRAGILE AND OFTEN LOST. WHEN MATERIAL REACHES THAT POINT HANDLING OR OPEN DISPLAY WITHOUT FURTHER DAMAGE TO THE ITEM IS NOT POSSIBLE. TRUE WHEN ADDING PRESERVATIVES THERE WILL BE A BUILD-UP OF RESIDUE OF OILS, POLISH OR WAX AND PERHAPS DUST MAY STICK WHICH WILL IN TURN ATTRACT MOISTURE. BUT IT WILL OFTEN PROLONG THE TIME WE CAN HANDLE AND OPENLY DISPLAY THE ITEMS. TO PROPERLY MAINTAIN THIS REGIMEN WILL INCREASE OUR HANDLING OF OUR COLLECTIONS SO MAY ADD A BIT OF WEAR AND HOPEFULLY ENJOYMENT TO OUR COLLECTION. MANY LIGHT COATS OF ANY PRESERVATIVE APPLIED OVER TIME IS MUCH BETTER THAN A HEAVY COAT SOAKING THE ITEM. THIS WORLD WE LIVE IN IS HIGHLY CORROSIVE MORE THAN MOST PLANETS AS SO MUCH IS WATER AND SALT (THE UNIVERSAL SOLVENT). SO ITS NATURAL FOR ALL THINGS TO CHANGE REGARDLESS OF OUR BEST EFFORTS. IF YOU WANT PROOF LOOK AT OLD SCHOOL PICTURES AND THEN LOOK IN THE MIRROR SO ITS BEST TO LEARN ALL YOU CAN ABOUT PRESERVATION AND RESTORATION AND CHART A COURSE YOU CAN FOLLOW AS NO ONE CAN MAKE YOUR CHOICES FOR YOU. WE ALL WANT TO PRESERVE THESE ITEMS AND HOPEFULLY PASS THEM ALONG IN AS GOOD OR BETTER SHAPE THAN WE OFTEN FIND THEM.

15th October 2014, 11:50 PM	#9
Robert EAAF Staff Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Centerville, Kansas Posts: 2,196	I would like to thank everyone for their help and opinions on how and what to do and not to do to help me in the preservation of this shield. As of this time I have only done a light cleaning with a small soft brush and canned air to try to clean it as much as possible without doing any damage to the wood. I did apply (to a small area on the back side of the shield) a small amount of ren wax that was absorbed almost instantly like a dry sponge soaking up water. I have done nothing sense. That said, I think that I will only do one more cleaning attempt using a cloth dampened with a little distilled water and Murphy's Oil Soap to try to remove the more stubborn dust build up. Thank you all again for your help and if anyone has any further information or advice that they would like to offer on this item it too would be greatly appreciated. Best, Robert