Ethical restoration or not?

Ibrahiim al Balooshi · 11th June 2012, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ariel

I have a turkish sword with a hopelessly detached crossguard. Originally, it was secured with some kind of native adhesive, similar to what is used on tulwars ( at least looking like it).

I am debating whether I should go into researching the exact original formula, use similar but modern concoctions ( sealing wax with brick powder, for example) or just go for the tried and true epoxy ( my preference due to the availability of material, excellent structural outcome and ease of use).

I remember Artzi's lesson on kilij restoration, where he used epoxy.

How legitimate and ethical would it be to use epoxy?

I am not showing the sword now since I pose an almost hypothetical questions, but will post it when the job is done.

Salaams ariel; We run into the ethics of restoration and/or conservation~ If it can be undone ~ do it. If it can't ~ don't.

Regards,
Ibrahiim al Balooshi.

capt.smash · 12th June 2012, 06:30 PM

May i suggest cuttlers resin it is probably what was used originaly and has been used for hundreds of years by many cultures. It is simple to make and though the ingredients change slightly depending on geographical location it is always basicaly the same thing.
2 parts pine resin
1 part bees wax
1 part brick dust/wood dust /clay dust.
The trick is not to heat to hot to quickly and not to burn yourself.
I make and use this myself and works perfectly,also it can be removed simply by re-heating.

ariel · 13th June 2012, 01:51 AM

What pine resin do you use? Also, how do you achieve a proper tint ( dark-brown with reddish hue)?

capt.smash · 13th June 2012, 07:58 AM

Hi Ariel i use plain old european pine resin, it is easy to source.As for the colour i use very fine brick dust witch makes a dark brown product or you could add powdered charcoal to darken or ochre or other coloured dryed and powdered clays/soils to get the colour you desire.I get very fine brick dust from a model railway supplier this works very well.
You can also ajust the recipy to make a softer or harder cooled product.

ariel · 13th June 2012, 11:05 AM

Many thanks. Sounds simple and I shall try. Keep fingers crossed!

mross · 13th June 2012, 01:51 PM

I think this thread with the recipe should be a sticky

ariel · 13th June 2012, 09:58 PM

Agree.
This question pops up very often and will be needed by many in the future.
Good suppliers of wax and pine resin can be added later, as well as any refinements.

Gavin Nugent · 14th June 2012, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mross

I think this thread with the recipe should be a sticky

http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=13510

Agreed, put it all in one place though.

Gav

12th June 2012, 06:30 PM	#2
capt.smash Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Devon ,England Posts: 80	May i suggest cuttlers resin it is probably what was used originaly and has been used for hundreds of years by many cultures. It is simple to make and though the ingredients change slightly depending on geographical location it is always basicaly the same thing. 2 parts pine resin 1 part bees wax 1 part brick dust/wood dust /clay dust. The trick is not to heat to hot to quickly and not to burn yourself. I make and use this myself and works perfectly,also it can be removed simply by re-heating.

13th June 2012, 01:51 AM	#3
ariel Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 5,503	What pine resin do you use? Also, how do you achieve a proper tint ( dark-brown with reddish hue)?

13th June 2012, 07:58 AM	#4
capt.smash Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Devon ,England Posts: 80	Hi Ariel i use plain old european pine resin, it is easy to source.As for the colour i use very fine brick dust witch makes a dark brown product or you could add powdered charcoal to darken or ochre or other coloured dryed and powdered clays/soils to get the colour you desire.I get very fine brick dust from a model railway supplier this works very well. You can also ajust the recipy to make a softer or harder cooled product.

13th June 2012, 11:05 AM	#5
ariel Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 5,503	Many thanks. Sounds simple and I shall try. Keep fingers crossed!

13th June 2012, 01:51 PM	#6
mross Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 478	I think this thread with the recipe should be a sticky

13th June 2012, 09:58 PM	#7
ariel Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 5,503	Agree. This question pops up very often and will be needed by many in the future. Good suppliers of wax and pine resin can be added later, as well as any refinements.