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Old 6th April 2012, 07:20 PM   #1
cornelistromp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmitry
Again, our posts have crossed, Michael.
I once tried to remove the Ren.Wax from a blade. And I couldn't do it. I tried Acetone, a couple of commercial solvents, and still the white patches of wax wouldn't come off. Apparently it's possible to remove with special solvents, under lab conditions.

One might ask - why on Earth did you try to remove the wax?
Answer - I had put a very thin layer of it on a perfectly shiny nicely etched blade, and the sheen became dull, as the wax creeped into the miniscule pores in the metal, which were not evident to the naked eye.

Just my $.02..
Renaissance wax can easily be removed with white spirit.(terpetine)

best,
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Old 6th April 2012, 07:26 PM   #2
Matchlock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cornelistromp
Renaissance wax can easily be removed with white spirit.(terpetine)

best,

Right, Jasper,

Provided that that was the solvent originally used I think ...

That's exactly what I was trying to refer to anyway.

Best,
Michael
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Old 8th April 2012, 09:50 AM   #3
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It may well preserved with silicone oil for weapons.
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Old 10th April 2012, 05:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Multumesc
It may well preserved with silicone oil for weapons.
Indeed. What was done in the past is not necessarily good. Olive oil is NOT a good preservative, as it contains acids and water, and it hardens to a thick film that would jamm any fine mechanism.
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Old 10th April 2012, 07:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broadaxe
... and it hardens to a thick film that would jamm any fine mechanism.
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Old 10th April 2012, 08:47 PM   #6
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i would not use olive oil... could get rancid... i use ballistol on all my handmade knives.
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Old 12th April 2012, 06:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fernando
Olive oil hardens over the years, creates a thick layer that 'freezes' moving parts.
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Old 12th April 2012, 06:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broadaxe
Olive oil hardens over the years, creates a thick layer that 'freezes' moving parts.
No harm for a sword, a polearm, a cuirasse or a non shooting antique firearm ... if indeed olive oil has the strenght to freeze mechanisms
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Old 12th April 2012, 06:34 PM   #9
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I have just started the process of "olivification" with some store-bought olive oil on the hilt of this French non-comissioned officer's sword ca.1750. It was originally blackened [fer noirci], with only traces remaining around the inside of the shell.

Starting photo.


Will report back in a couple of months.
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Old 14th April 2012, 01:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broadaxe
Olive oil hardens over the years, creates a thick layer that 'freezes' moving parts.
That's absolutely right; olive oil is definitely nor recommended for mechanical parts!!! It will freeze them.
The old-time recipe for them was either stone or bone oil. I too prefer Ballistol (a Lower Bavarian poduct, btw ...) for mechanics - and only for them.

Sorry for not mentioning this earlier but I understood the discussion was about outer surfaces.

Best,
Michael

Last edited by Matchlock; 14th April 2012 at 09:53 PM.
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