best way of removing rust

[Matchlock]

Hi Michael,

I've often posted my philosophy that doing less is more. It this were mine I would take out the lock, put a layer of olive oil on it and gently rub with fine steel wool. Never touch the dry iron with steel wool! This way you will get a nice bright polish, with just a few gray stains remaining.

Have fun, and best,
the other Michael

[terry1956]

Thanks for that, I just wanted to stop anymore rust forming and kill what was there, will play around later on.
thanks, michael

[Fernando K]

Hola
Aunque la pregunta, al parecer, no ha sido dirigida a todos, contesto:
El óxido de hierro se comporta como un cuerpo extraño en la superficie del metal, como un par galvánico que fomenta mas y mas oxidación. No existe óxido pasivo, aunque en apariencia permanezca estable.
Hay que eliminar las mínimas trazas de óxido. Para ello hay tres métodos: la electrolisis y el método de zinc-soda, basados en la producción de hidrogeno naciente, que reduce al óxido, y el ultra-sonido.
El óxido se forma en cráteres irregulares "picaduras" y aunque se limpie la superficie, el óxido permanece en las cavernas, y la única manera de eliminarlo, es eliminando metal.
Estos métodos son recomendados por el ICOM (International Council of Museums)

AHello
Although the question, apparently, has not been addressed to all, replied:
The iron oxide acts as a foreign body in the metal surface, such as a galvanic couple that encourages more and more rust. There is no passive oxide, although apparently remains stable.
Minimum necessary to remove the traces of rust. For this there are three methods: electrolysis and the zinc-soda method, based on the production of nascent hydrogen, which reduces the oxide, and the ultra-sound.
The oxide is formed in craters irregular "bites" and although the surface is cleaned, rust remains in caves, and the only way to remove it is by removing metal.
These methods are recommended by the ICOM (International Council of Museums)

Afecdtuosamente. Fernando IK
fecdtuosamente. Fernando IK

[terry1956]

Thanks again for reply, michael

[Matchlock]

Hi Fernando K,

I'am afraid you should have added that all you get by using the methods you mentioned is an optically disturbed, dull, porous iron surface that has nothing to do with the original.
Wouldn'that be sad?

Best,
Michael

[laEspadaAncha]

Hi Michael,

I rely on #0000 steel wool and 3-in-1 oil, working just the area with the 'active' rust with just enough pressure to remove it. I then wipe it dry with a paper towel, wet another one with 3-in-1, and wipe the treated area until I see no more red on the paper towel. Sometimes I have to revisit the spot with the #0000 (again in conjunction with the 3-in-1) and repeat the process.

#0000 steel wool is equivalent to somewhere between 600-grit and 1000-grit sandpaper, so with oil your safe. You would have to try really, really hard to remove patina.

Cheers,

Chris

[Matchlock]

Hi Chris,

As applying an oil layer on iron before starting any cleaning process has always been the basis of my philosophy, your suggestion sounds fair enough.
I prefer olive oil as it has been a) the historic oil care since at least the invention of firearms some 700 years ago, and b) in my experience provides the thickest and most consistent lubric layer.
Anyway, I would be eager to learn how you define 'patina' compared to 'rust'?
In other words: on what criteria is your method based?

And: why remove patina at all?!

Best,
Michael

[laEspadaAncha]

Originally Posted by Matchlock

Hi Chris,

As applying an oil layer on iron before starting any cleaning process has always been the basis of my philosophy, your suggestion sounds fair enough.
I prefer olive oil as it has been a) the historic oil care since at least the invention of firearms some 700 years ago, and b) in my experience provides the thickest and most consistent lubric layer.
Anyway, I would be eager to learn how you define 'patina' compared to 'rust'?
In other words: on what criteria is your method based?

And: why remove patina at all?!

Best,
Michael

Hi Michael,

Given the form of patina varies from medium to medium, in the context of steel, I would consider 'patina' to be the stabilized, i.e., non-active rust (black/brown vs. the red/brown of active rust).

However, I never remove patina... at least not intentionally! The "try really, really hard" comment was meant tongue-in-cheek, as it would take a lot of pressure and elbow grease to remove stable patina with #0000 (which is why I consider it safe ).

I like olive oil as well, BTW. I think I revert to the 3-in-1 as much out of habit as for anything else, as I prefer like the "feel" of a thinner, lower viscosity liquid. Personal preference I guess...

Best Regards,

Chris