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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 734
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Thanks everybody for the replies and opinions!
Tim: I have no clue what the yellow colour is and how was it made, sorry... Detlef: I know it is quite a pain to remove the chrome, and in case of this sword it seems to be unnecessary. Dennee: thank you for the expert opinion; I came to the same conclusion logically. It means that I can leave the blade as it is, and save me some heavy work ![]() |
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#2 | |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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I believe I had a quick look at this sword a while ago here in England. I was and am of the opinion that it is recently made (entirely). Even so, it seems to be rather well made and is certainly unusual. I wouldn't change it at all, I wouldn't remove the plating or anything. I think it's worthy of a place in any collection as a finely made modern continuation of a traditional form. Despite the plating, the other elements are very traditional and well executed. Were it mine, I would concentrate on trying to identify (if possible) where these are being made and by whom. Best G |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 734
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Gene: you are right, it is the same sword and it was sold by one of the forumites on eBay. The end price was very reasonable, so I am satisfied with the purchase, although it turned out to be recently made (I was bidding keeping in mind this possibility :-) And I am glad that I shouldn't remove the plating
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 936
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I do not know anything about Bhutan arms, but the fittings look very fine. With total lack of knowledge in the area I admit I was fooled into thinking they're old.
As for chrome-plated blade... I found chrome-plated shamshir blade once. Why was it chromed, no idea. It was looking totally shiny brand new, what gave is the cartouche:-) otherwise it'd be lost forever:-) see before and after pics. |
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#5 |
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,989
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Over the years I have had a number of different blades with plating, usually chrome plating, but on a couple of occasions I seem to recall it was nickel.
In all cases I dismounted the blade and gave it to a plater to reverse the process and remove the plating. In all cases the removal was totally satisfactory. After the plating had been removed I did a light polish with wet and dry paper and etched. The results of the etching were not always all that pleasing. On a couple of occasions I finished up with truly excellent blades of mechanical damascus and another of wootz; some khukris had blades that were composed of haphazardly welded bits and pieces; a couple of blades were mild steel or iron with no pattern at all. One jambiya was revealed as total junk--- the rib down the middle of the blade was a line of electric welding. If the plating on this Bhutan blade were to be removed it could be a win, or it could be a loss. |
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#6 | |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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Thats a very interesting thought Alan. Reverse electro-plating. I know a chap who uses a similar process of reverse electrolosis to remove Verdi Gris from ancient coins while his is on archeological digs. He's made a 'kit' that works off of the car cigarette lighter (with a jam-jar of something to dip the coin and electrodes in I think) I wonder if a home kit could be made for removing chrome/nickel? I'll be seeing him this weekend, I'll see if he has any idea of how it could be adapted. Best Gene |
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#7 | |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Kent
Posts: 2,658
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Hi Gene, found this on an engineering forum........ The proceedure is very much the same as removing rust but with different chemical. First, degrease completely and scrub thoroughly with detergent. Mix 1 cup of Muriatic acid with 3 gallons of water in a plastic bucket. NOTE; ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. NEVER WATER TO ACID !!! (It WILL explode) Hang two or three copper wires (#12 or larger) around sides of bucket. Connect these to ground of battery charger. Hang item to be dechromed in fluid with positive lead connected. Be sure part doesn"t touch ground wires. Within a few seconds or minutes, depending on thickness of chrome, it should come clean. More or less time as required. When finnished, wash parts in mild soda water solution to nutralize acid. (Do this right way to prevent rust) As with any caustic acid, handle with care. I would add that the fumes are 'unhealthy' ![]() I should also add that by lowering the concentration of acid, the de-chroming would be slower and more controlable. Kind Regards David |
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