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#1 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
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I will say with certainty that if you get it restored, at least get the missing inlay replaced and the blade restained (if not the scabbard too). It is a great blade.
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#2 |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,211
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I agree that it might look nice to restore the silver to the inlay of the blade. Here we have a case where there is just no question, the silver was once there and it would seem absolutely correct to replace it.
With the hilt we have a completely different case though. Yes, this is probably not the origin hilt. But you would need to make a number of assumption and outright guess if indeed you were to decide to "return" it to it's original splendor and at the same time you would be destroying the history of the kris itself. From what i can see it does indeed look like the sheath once had metal bands and given the blade they may well have been silver. So if you wanted to go that route it might look OK. But it does seem to have one rattan band at the bottom and so it might look better as an ensemble piece to simply add a couple more rattan bands. Since rattan was the way this kris was maintained when last in service it seems most appropriate to restore with rattan. Try giving the wood a good cleaning/oiling and it should look pretty nice. |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: The Sharp end
Posts: 2,928
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Lovely looking sword Yanni.
Congratulations, and welcome to the forums. Regards Gene |
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#4 | |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,336
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Sterling ? Not likely; the resulting patinas may well not match ... ![]() As for the scabbard bands; if there is one rattan one extant I'd suggest adding another one or 2 of the same type . This piece absolutely reeks of desperation and defiance to the last breath . That is the story I read from this ensemble . Here is an original wrap . Overactive imagination ? ![]() Maybe . |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,818
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Hi Yanni,
As you can see there are many opinions on directions one can go, the choice is always yours and thus far the job you have done is a great job getting it to the condition that you have... My thoughts are in line with others in being that the restoration on this should be limited. My thoughts are as follows; 1/Clean properly the inside of the scabbard housing 2/Rebind the scabbard pieces in rattan (There has been a good discussion about this recently and a big thanks to Steve for his photography binding steps in an old post being bought back to life). Oil the scabbard too, again, many choices of oil here. 3/The patterns in the steel can be bought out with chemicals or with the fine cleanings you are giving it, though chemicals are instant and more dramatic but neutralise neutralise neutralise. 4/The inlay, your call, but be sure to ensure all cut outs in the blade are perfectly cleaned if this is to be done. I wouldn't be too worried about any colour differences, a very light 0000 steel wool application will have it all shining should you venture down this road. 5/Leave the binding on the hilt as it is, it is ethnographically important. 6/Right or wrong I'd run with an small ivory pommel and have it intensely aged. My opinion in most restorations bar a few is that the road with least resistance is always of preference and I wouldn't be too bothered with doing points 3 or 4 unless you really want to as a personal choice. I currently have a pair of 18th century Jian with a master restorer. As the blades need straightening and a proper polish I am going to loose some inlay in a small rusted area that I want polished out. This I am asking to be re-chiseled and the gold replaced. An expensive exercise for me but my choice...just wishing to indicate anything can be done should you wish. Regardless, enjoy the piece you have, it is nice even in its current condition. Gav Last edited by freebooter; 1st December 2010 at 04:26 AM. Reason: spelling |
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#6 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,272
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I agree with Gav when it comes to the silver inlay. The patina differences are slight in my experience, regardless if it were pure silver or sterling. Both are available and was exists can be tested.
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 4
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Dear Forum Members,
Thank you all for your time and input. It is very helpful. I think I will repair the silver inlay on this piece. I was reluctant in replacing the hilt because as some of you said it would take away from its history and character. I have a jeweler friend that I can pump for knowledge and information on the metal inlay technique. The cane wrap.... well I now wish that I paid more attention on my weaving and knitting classes way back when I was in kindergarten. I have to decide on what weaving style I would like to use from the pics in this forum and then try to figure out how they did it. I also would like to put a pommel to replace the one that is lost, however, I have no idea where to get one or at least obtain the native raw material to try and carve one out. Be it ivory or hard wood. (Bahi, Saru, Ebony) It is not going to be perfect, but it should fit in with the whole "field expedient repair" theme of the hilt. Again, any information on where I may be able to purchase the needed material will be greatly appreciated. Thank you much, Yanni |
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