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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 180
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Oh good point re gunsafe. Do you use a dehumidifier, desiccant or something similar in the safe?
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 180
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 180
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The hilt.
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 180
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The blade. Definite concave/convex aspect to the blade. Don't know significance of the motif(?) on blade near hilt as I read that the mata kalong(?) was usually inscribed on the blade. The main plate in van Zonneveld does show a Mandau with metalwork with a piece near the hilt that looks similar.
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 180
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Scabbard. Something seems a little off to me re the scabbard. One side appears different to the other in regards to wood type/carving.
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 2,789
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I suspect your question relates to storing and cleaning LATER when you have time, rather than immediate cleaning and storage??
I would just spray the blades with WD40/CRC556/Inox or the like. Leave OUT of scabbards and DON'T wrap in plastic which will seal in any moisture and cause sweating and more rust. If you have any old style FABRIC nappies lying around, they are ideal for wrapping items as they breathe and are soft. I assume you already have weapons on display or in cabinets. Try to keep at a constant temp with humidity LOW. By all means use Silicagel as an added protection against damp if you are in a humid part of the country. Regards Stuart |
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#7 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: OKLAHOMA, USA
Posts: 3,138
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I NOTICE THE SCABBARD HAS LEATHER ON IT, MAKE SURE THE BLADE DOSEN'T GET STORED IN CONTACT WITH THE LEATHER. LEATHER ATTRACTS MOISTURE AND OFTEN HAD CHEMICALS USED IN TANNING THAT PROMOTE RUST. THE SCABBARD HAS TRACES OF DYED GOAT HAIR AS WELL AS VERY NICE FIBER KNOT WORK, THOSE AS WELL AS THE HANDLE CARVINGS MAY BE OF HELP IN IDENTIFING THE TRIBE OR REGION OF ORIGIN. UNFORTUNATELY I DON'T HAVE THAT KIND OF IN DEPTH KNOWLEGE. OFTEN THE POUCH AND SMALL KNIFE ARE MISSING ON A GOOD WORKING DAYAK SWORD. IT IS NOT UNUSUAL FOR A BETTER HARD WOOD TO BE USED ON THE SCABBARD AND A SOFTER LIGHTER ,LESS EXPENSIVE WOOD FOR THE BACK. THE HARDER WOOD WILL TAKE MORE DETAILED CARVING AND WEAR LESS THAN THE SOFTER VARIETY AND AS THE BACK IS NOT SHOWN IS LESS IMPORTANT SO ITS A GOOD PLACE TO CUT COST BY USING LESS EXPENSIVE WOODS.
CONGRADULATIONS A NICE LITTLE ASSORTMENT OF GOODIES ![]() |
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#8 | |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: comfortably at home, USA
Posts: 432
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![]() Quote:
Rich S |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 180
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Thanks for the great info everyone. I have some Renaissance wax on it's way for when I can devote some time to these items.
I have some photos for the next mandau. It has taken awhile as I got sprung taking photos of the last one and the wife went ballistic, so I thought it best to keep quiet about the other 5 items I got. I couldn't explain why I needed these things, it's a sickness. The item referred to in the auction as "Old Dyak Headhunters Mandau". Dimensions: Weight = 800gm approx. Overall Length = 710mm. Blade length (tip to hilt) = 580mm. Point of balance = 400mm from tip. Blade thickness along spine at 3 points. Hilt = 7.5mm, midpoint blade = 6mm, 140mm from tip = 5mm. Notes: Steel cording on hilt needs repair. Severe pitting on blade. Unidentified red substance on blade, more pronounced on one side. Concave/convex aspect less apparent. Crowit(?) on blade near hilt. Filework on spine of blade near tip. |
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 180
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![]() ![]() ![]() The hilt ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 180
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The blade
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 180
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The blade continued
![]() ![]() The scabbard ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#13 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 180
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The scabbard continued
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