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#1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Hello Milandro,
As mentioned above (post #21), I'm not favouring etching with ferric chloride. The stain will often exhibit pretty warm colors (i.e. rusty), sometimes after some time only. Even if one has experience in its use on modern pattern-welded blades, there is a chance that leftover chloride ions will keep nagging on a blade, especially with antique blades that are more likely to have crevices from cold shuts, eroded surfaces, etc. Pretty much all Moro aficionados are nowadays utilizing warm diluted acetic acid. While the resulting pattern will be more subdued, it certainly seems close enough to what real user blades probably looked like. Regards, Kai (BTW, I see that I failed to answer David's post - will do ASAP) Last edited by kai; 8th February 2023 at 10:27 PM. |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 492
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Cheers Kai
![]() I realise that the topic of staining is controversial ![]() Since I have never seen a Kris blade (Moro or otherwise) which has been stained with FeCl, I took the chance offered in this thread to see how one would have looked like. Since Xasterix announced the staining (staining which was " to come" at that time) of this blade in FeCl and the intention to post pictures as a follow up : ".... I'll be doing an FeCl etch in the near future- I'll update this thread by then with clear and close-up pics ..." I was wondering if this had happened and if we could partake of the results. I have seen several pictures of blades stained in vinegar and, for comparison, would be very educative and informative for all to see the difference between the two (of course , Ideally one would have to see it on the same blade but also two similar one would be the next best thing) Last edited by milandro; 9th February 2023 at 08:31 AM. Reason: syntax |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Yes, I may be the culprit in dissuading Ray to move forward...
![]() ![]() We had some Moro blades treated with ferric chloride here in the forum (if not findable with a search, possibly in the defunct UBB forum). I'm going to PM you examples that I can't post here, Milandro. Regards, Kai |
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#4 | |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
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#5 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 674
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Hullo Milandro! Sorry it took me a while to get back. I didn't FeCl the kris anymore. As chance would have it, I was able to contact a descendant-relative of the original Maguindanaon owner, and upon realizing the value of that pusaka, they expressed that they would like to acquire it in memory of their ancestral lineage. As much as I want to keep it (who won't want to keep a twistcore, right), out of goodwill I let them acquire it from me. That's one less twistcore for me, but at least a family reclaimed its pusaka.
Anyhow- I've been experimenting a bit, and my current preference is a mix- 1. Mirror polish then FeCL, stabilize 2. I immerse a white vinegar-filled tube with old brass for around 2 hours 3. I dip the blade for around 30 mins (as a second etch), stabilize So far I'm pleased with the results. It doesn't show up that clearly in my pics, but there's a golden tone to the etch in certain places (due to the brass residue). Here's some pieces I did that progression with. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Netherlands
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Hello Xasterix,
thank you very much for getting back to this thread with such relevant information and very well done for returning the acquired kris to the family of the original owner. You are a gentleman. Anyway. Thanks for sharing your experience and your personal recipe. I am considering all options for my one Moro blade (which I did publish elsewhere in another thread but I can add a picture here for completeness of the discussion). I don't think it has a twist core or any other major feature , yet, I think that giving it the chance to show the hidden secrets (so to speak) may be a nice touch. I am going to consult a local master bladesmith , hoping that he can provide some insights from a " de visu" exam of the blade. |
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#7 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
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#8 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Germany, Dortmund
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Hello Xas,
Be careful with your blades, I see brown corrosion by your kris, this is what Kai mentioned before about etching with FeCl. Regards, Detlef |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
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Hullo Detlef! Thanks for the heads-up- but that's no corrosion don't worry- it's the "effect" of etching with white vinegar + brass residue =) it gives a different tinge to the etch which I fancy (but I understand it's not for everyone's aesthetic). Here's some more pics.
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#10 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,018
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What’s the purpose of adding the brass to the vinegar? |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
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Thanks sir Albert =) oh that's just an experimental mixture of mine to add some random brass-ish color to the etch. I noticed that brass, when soaked on white vinegar, leaves residue. It's etched unto any dunked blade afterwards. It's easy to lighten up or remove with some fine steel wool.
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#12 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
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It also affects the color of other metals, including silver I think- notice how the asang-asang became gold-ish, same color as the etched residues on the blade.
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#13 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Hello Ray,
Quote:
On the blade, your results still do look suspicious to me. When I've seen effects from "contaminating" metals/alloys, the "deposit" seemed to be much more evenly distributed - at least if the blade was regularly moved in the etching solution to avoid erratic results. Regards, Kai |
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