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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA
Posts: 312
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One thing I have done on swords that will be used for hard practice, has been to do a pitch plug on the end. Essentially the sword will be held in place with a strong modern epoxy, but for aesthetics, I leave about a 1/4" room at the joint which I then fill with pitch for looks.
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Witness Protection Program
Posts: 1,730
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zel and federico,
will the pitch hold the hilt in place? i can actually spin the hilt around so evidently it's no longer attached to the handle (wood shrinkage, maybe?). can i use something like superglue to hold it in place then add the pitch on top of that, or will the pitch take care of it? |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 134
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Good luck Spunjer on your resto project.
Nice job Zel on the restoration. Have you or anyone done any Plume or Beak Restoration on the kakatua pommel on a barung? Any help or suggestions would be appreciated?
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Witness Protection Program
Posts: 1,730
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA
Posts: 312
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Spunjer, what are you planning on using your barong for? Practice or display or collection? Pitch alone (if you removed the loose hilt, cleaned of loose particles, and re-filled) is a good enough adhessive. For security, for practice swords, as I noted in my post above, I have used epoxy (such as JB weld) and left a small gap for pitch to be placed so that superficially it will appear like it is held by pitch. I would not recommend superglue to fill any large cavity. A slower drying 2 part epoxy would probably work best. I prefer JB weld myself, but the drawback is that mistakes cannot be corrected as it can only be removed mechanically (eg. breaking the hilt).
Ibeam the only real cockatua restoration would be to recarve the cockatua down or to replace it completely. I would not suggest tacking on a new crest or beak, as there would a number of problems. A. finding the banati would in the first place is difficult, B. finding banati of similar grain and color C. hiding the joint One could try staining to hide, but as the wood ages, the contrast would become apparant. Ironically ivory is easier to do this with, as joint lines can often be mistaken as stress cracking. But, with wood, I really havent seen anyone add pieces that werent obvious replacements. The only thing I could think of, if you really want a bigger cockatua, perhaps add silver tips (eg. beak and crest) to the cockatua. Jose/Battara could probably whip something amazing up. |
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Witness Protection Program
Posts: 1,730
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federico,
it will be purely collection/display... |
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#7 |
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EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,352
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ibeam, I would suggest the following:
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA
Posts: 312
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Quote:
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 134
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Thank you Federico and Battara for the suggestions.
Battara, Do you have any pictures you can share that you have done restorations similar to items #b & #c # b) carve a small piece of wood to match the rest of the wood and glue # c) glue a piece of wood and then wrap the piece with some twisted silver wire BTW, excellent job on the Silver Kakatua on Ian's Barung. |
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