What kind of oil do you use for your blades?

fearn · 26th November 2009, 04:32 PM

I love linseed oil too. It's got one problem though, which is that linseed oil on cotton rags can sometimes spontaneously combust, so make sure you dispose of it carefully!. I usually soap up the rags and dispose of them sopping wet.

Best,

F

A. G. Maisey · 26th November 2009, 10:07 PM

Thanks for that Fearn.

Just shows it doesn't matter how long you've used something you can always learn something new about it.

I've used linseed oil, both raw and boiled, all my life, as had my father before me, and his great uncle, from whom he learnt his trade, and I've never heard about this spontaneous combustion thing.

Do you know under what circumstances this will occur?

Ever seen it happen?

PS --- just googleised it. yep, its real alright. couldn't find anybody who had ever seen it happen, but according to the chemistry its possible, and manufacturers warn against it.

Again, thanks Fearn for bringing this to our attention.

asomotif · 26th November 2009, 10:21 PM

Cotton rags and any kind of grease or oil may start to "selfheat".
Same proces as in coal or a haystack.

If you combine this with metal dust or turnings that are left after drilling in metal, you can get a tricky combination for a fire.

Cotton rags with lineseed can also be laid down flat for the lineseed to dry before disposal.

Risk is the sum of "chance" and "consequence".
The chance of these rags selfcombusting is probably not that high.
But the consequence if you have left them in the garbage can in the garage and return after a days work...

fearn · 27th November 2009, 04:25 AM

Yep. The problem is that the heating and ignition seems to be pretty unpredictable, otherwise you could carry a wad of cotton and linseed oil camping to light a fire. That unpredictability is the annoying part, and I've certainly never seen it.

It's not hard to fix, so it's worth cleaning up properly. Otherwise, linseed's lovely stuff.

Best,

F

PUFF · 27th November 2009, 03:21 PM

I use Renaissance Wax or alike for both metal and wooden parts.
I found drying vegetable oils (linseed, tung) do not protect them from moisture well enough. Drying oil also darken the wood part too much.

Non-drying oil like mineral or white oil may attract dust. Human or animal oil also attract pest (mice/insects) to take your scabbard as their snack.

A. G. Maisey · 27th November 2009, 05:06 PM

On wood in perfect condition a good furniture wax of one kind or another is essential. Rennaissance or Antiqax are probably the best. However, on wood that has deteriorated, linseed oil is probably the best substance to assist in restoration.

I have treated wood carvings with raw linseed oil that had great gaping cracks in them and these carvings were brought back so that the cracks were completely closed. It took months in all cases to achieve this, and in the case of one large elephant from Bali, he stood in oil for a very long time. But the closure of gaps has stood the test of time.

Dimasalang · 27th November 2009, 06:25 PM

One thing to really keep in mind about linseed, it is not that great if you are restoring "decorative" wood. For instance, bunti wood with the nice grain on a barong that really stands out. In the wood working world, linseed is not that great for getting the grain to pop, reflect, stand out, glow, or give that 3D effect(chatoyance). You will still see the different grain sections, but it will be dull and not stand or pop out. Many wood workers have their own techniques and can use different methods to get grain to pop..it is like an art form. It is difficult to do since nearly all wood(even if the same type) can behave differently to the same techniques. Most popping techniques involve shellac and sealers. And I have heard some wood workers using Chromium Trioxide, which is a highly cancerous chemical, just to make the grains stand out(not a good idea IMO if you are always handling the wood). Down side of all this, these popping grain finishes typically do not last long ...a good 10 years and the pop will be fading; and the shellac or sealer can make it look extremely cloudy.
So, I guess it all boils down to what you want or have, and what you want to do with it. Bunti wood is very attract wood and can be just as decorative as curly maple...which is why I believe the Moros used the wood. For historical pieces I have or will acquire, I would use linseed. If I was restoring a piece and more interested in making it look nice and stand out, then linseed may not be a good idea.

A barong I have that had the handle refinished where the grain pops.

26th November 2009, 04:32 PM	#1
fearn Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,247	I love linseed oil too. It's got one problem though, which is that linseed oil on cotton rags can sometimes spontaneously combust, so make sure you dispose of it carefully!. I usually soap up the rags and dispose of them sopping wet. Best, F

26th November 2009, 10:07 PM	#2
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,989	Thanks for that Fearn. Just shows it doesn't matter how long you've used something you can always learn something new about it. I've used linseed oil, both raw and boiled, all my life, as had my father before me, and his great uncle, from whom he learnt his trade, and I've never heard about this spontaneous combustion thing. Do you know under what circumstances this will occur? Ever seen it happen? PS --- just googleised it. yep, its real alright. couldn't find anybody who had ever seen it happen, but according to the chemistry its possible, and manufacturers warn against it. Again, thanks Fearn for bringing this to our attention.

26th November 2009, 10:21 PM	#3
asomotif Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 2,228	Cotton rags and any kind of grease or oil may start to "selfheat". Same proces as in coal or a haystack. If you combine this with metal dust or turnings that are left after drilling in metal, you can get a tricky combination for a fire. Cotton rags with lineseed can also be laid down flat for the lineseed to dry before disposal. Risk is the sum of "chance" and "consequence". The chance of these rags selfcombusting is probably not that high. But the consequence if you have left them in the garbage can in the garage and return after a days work...

27th November 2009, 04:25 AM	#4
fearn Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,247	Yep. The problem is that the heating and ignition seems to be pretty unpredictable, otherwise you could carry a wad of cotton and linseed oil camping to light a fire. That unpredictability is the annoying part, and I've certainly never seen it. It's not hard to fix, so it's worth cleaning up properly. Otherwise, linseed's lovely stuff. Best, F

27th November 2009, 03:21 PM	#5
PUFF Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: 30 miles north of Bangkok, 20 miles south of Ayuthaya, Thailand Posts: 224	I use Renaissance Wax or alike for both metal and wooden parts. I found drying vegetable oils (linseed, tung) do not protect them from moisture well enough. Drying oil also darken the wood part too much. Non-drying oil like mineral or white oil may attract dust. Human or animal oil also attract pest (mice/insects) to take your scabbard as their snack.

27th November 2009, 05:06 PM	#6
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,989	On wood in perfect condition a good furniture wax of one kind or another is essential. Rennaissance or Antiqax are probably the best. However, on wood that has deteriorated, linseed oil is probably the best substance to assist in restoration. I have treated wood carvings with raw linseed oil that had great gaping cracks in them and these carvings were brought back so that the cracks were completely closed. It took months in all cases to achieve this, and in the case of one large elephant from Bali, he stood in oil for a very long time. But the closure of gaps has stood the test of time.

27th November 2009, 06:25 PM	#7
Dimasalang Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 264	One thing to really keep in mind about linseed, it is not that great if you are restoring "decorative" wood. For instance, bunti wood with the nice grain on a barong that really stands out. In the wood working world, linseed is not that great for getting the grain to pop, reflect, stand out, glow, or give that 3D effect(chatoyance). You will still see the different grain sections, but it will be dull and not stand or pop out. Many wood workers have their own techniques and can use different methods to get grain to pop..it is like an art form. It is difficult to do since nearly all wood(even if the same type) can behave differently to the same techniques. Most popping techniques involve shellac and sealers. And I have heard some wood workers using Chromium Trioxide, which is a highly cancerous chemical, just to make the grains stand out(not a good idea IMO if you are always handling the wood). Down side of all this, these popping grain finishes typically do not last long ...a good 10 years and the pop will be fading; and the shellac or sealer can make it look extremely cloudy. So, I guess it all boils down to what you want or have, and what you want to do with it. Bunti wood is very attract wood and can be just as decorative as curly maple...which is why I believe the Moros used the wood. For historical pieces I have or will acquire, I would use linseed. If I was restoring a piece and more interested in making it look nice and stand out, then linseed may not be a good idea. A barong I have that had the handle refinished where the grain pops.