What kind of oil do you use for your blades?

M ELEY · 25th November 2009, 06:48 AM

I knew I had read that somewhere (English gunsmiths using linseed). Thanks, Stu!
OK, so I used boiled, but should be using raw linseed. Now I just have to find some...

kahnjar1 · 25th November 2009, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M ELEY

I knew I had read that somewhere (English gunsmiths using linseed). Thanks, Stu!
OK, so I used boiled, but should be using raw linseed. Now I just have to find some...

I don't know that it really matters if it is boiled or not. For Raw Linseed Oil
try a paint merchant (NON acrylic paint contains,or used to contain Linseed Oil) or good hardware shop.
Regards Stu

Dimasalang · 25th November 2009, 09:17 AM

Arts and Crafts stores carry RLO in small 8oz bottles. Artist use RLO to mix with their paint.

fearn · 26th November 2009, 04:32 PM

I love linseed oil too. It's got one problem though, which is that linseed oil on cotton rags can sometimes spontaneously combust, so make sure you dispose of it carefully!. I usually soap up the rags and dispose of them sopping wet.

Best,

F

A. G. Maisey · 26th November 2009, 10:07 PM

Thanks for that Fearn.

Just shows it doesn't matter how long you've used something you can always learn something new about it.

I've used linseed oil, both raw and boiled, all my life, as had my father before me, and his great uncle, from whom he learnt his trade, and I've never heard about this spontaneous combustion thing.

Do you know under what circumstances this will occur?

Ever seen it happen?

PS --- just googleised it. yep, its real alright. couldn't find anybody who had ever seen it happen, but according to the chemistry its possible, and manufacturers warn against it.

Again, thanks Fearn for bringing this to our attention.

asomotif · 26th November 2009, 10:21 PM

Cotton rags and any kind of grease or oil may start to "selfheat".
Same proces as in coal or a haystack.

If you combine this with metal dust or turnings that are left after drilling in metal, you can get a tricky combination for a fire.

Cotton rags with lineseed can also be laid down flat for the lineseed to dry before disposal.

Risk is the sum of "chance" and "consequence".
The chance of these rags selfcombusting is probably not that high.
But the consequence if you have left them in the garbage can in the garage and return after a days work...

fearn · 27th November 2009, 04:25 AM

Yep. The problem is that the heating and ignition seems to be pretty unpredictable, otherwise you could carry a wad of cotton and linseed oil camping to light a fire. That unpredictability is the annoying part, and I've certainly never seen it.

It's not hard to fix, so it's worth cleaning up properly. Otherwise, linseed's lovely stuff.

Best,

F

PUFF · 27th November 2009, 03:21 PM

I use Renaissance Wax or alike for both metal and wooden parts.
I found drying vegetable oils (linseed, tung) do not protect them from moisture well enough. Drying oil also darken the wood part too much.

Non-drying oil like mineral or white oil may attract dust. Human or animal oil also attract pest (mice/insects) to take your scabbard as their snack.

Albert · 8th December 2019, 07:14 PM

For the metal parts I use Ballistol.

A. G. Maisey · 8th December 2019, 07:41 PM

Yes Paul, the gandar, and the gambar of a wrongko will absorb the oil that is put onto a blade. In the case of a wrongko that has no pendok, this oil will stain the gandar, and this is considered to be undesirable.

However, it is considered to be desirable, some would say highly desirable, for the gandar that is covered with a pendok to be permeated by the fragrant oil that is applied to the blade.

Wood is a cellulose material, and left in long contact with unprotected ferric material, it will cause rust. If the oil permeates the wood it lessens the rust causing properties of cellulose. In fact, a scabbard of any type of material is far from ideal as the storage place for a blade. In the case of keris, two of the most favoured woods for a wrongko are scented sandalwood and teak, especially burl teak, both these woods have high natural oil content.

I use scented oil on all my South East Asian blades, on keris and other items considered to be tosan aji, because it is considered to be the respectful thing to do, on other blades because I always have the scented oil that I use on keris, close at hand, and it is easier for me to use this than something else.

But I do not store unprotected blades in their scabbards (wrongkos) I oil all my blades and then I place that oiled blade into a plastic sleeve, usually I then store the plastic covered blade in its scabbard, sometimes I do not.

Where the blade itself retains the smell of oil even after it has been thoroughly cleaned, the material from which the blade is made will be found to be open grained and porous.

Albert

Ballistol, and a number of other oils designed for use with firearms do provide very good protection for any object made of ferric material, and that includes edged weapons.

However, when we are dealing with items of tosan aji, that is keris, tombak, pedang and other similar weapons from the Archipelago, it is traditional within these cultures, and most especially so in Jawa, to use scented oils.

For those of us who wish to observe the correct pattern of behaviour in respect of tosan aji, the use of oils other than those deemed to be acceptable within the relevant cultures is not really an option.

Will M · 12th December 2019, 12:05 PM

Birchwood casey Gunstock finish works very well for wood and dries fairly quickly. You can have it as a dull to gloss finish depending on coats applied and whether you rub it in to a gloss. Very little odour once dry and can be handled without any transfer. Scratches etc. can be quickly touched up.

A. G. Maisey · 12th December 2019, 08:08 PM

When I mentioned commercial finishes in post 54(?) Birchwood Casey Truoil was what I had in mind. I prefer to build up a number of coats with this, then take the gloss down a bit by using 0000 steel wool, followed by wax. Once again, the preparation is the key.

Richard G · 12th December 2019, 09:57 PM

I find that if you have a wood that is already finished but just needs a bit of smartening up a vigorous polish with a good quality BEESWAX based furniture polish will do the job.
For metal work I prefer Renaissance Wax, and if it possible, 'warmed' so that it can penetrate any pits created by rust. You can lightly buff this to a nice sheen.
Regards
Richard

A. G. Maisey · 13th December 2019, 12:22 AM

All the traditional wood finishes require maintenance, dusting & a good quality furniture wax or furniture oil on a regular basis is all that is usually needed.

Beeswax is a good traditional wax, but it is even better if mixed with carnauba wax and gum turpentine, especially if you want a shiny finish.

Interested Party · 17th December 2019, 04:14 PM

My family refinished gunstocks for 60+ years (1930s-2000) beginning with my grandad. His brother worked on antique furniture next door. I started sanding for them at 8 or 9. I wish I could remember all I knew as a kid. In my lifetime certain looks were based on Truoil. Especially for people who wanted a quick turnaround. I can say that holds up well there are pieces that I know we did over 50 years ago with Truoil that still look nice. It also dries very quickly and a few shades lighter than boiled linseed. Sometimes we would finish with it to add extra shine.

Would beeswax or a beeswax mixture do well on horn?

8th December 2019, 07:14 PM	#9
Albert Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 202	Ballistol For the metal parts I use Ballistol.

8th December 2019, 07:41 PM	#10
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,048	Yes Paul, the gandar, and the gambar of a wrongko will absorb the oil that is put onto a blade. In the case of a wrongko that has no pendok, this oil will stain the gandar, and this is considered to be undesirable. However, it is considered to be desirable, some would say highly desirable, for the gandar that is covered with a pendok to be permeated by the fragrant oil that is applied to the blade. Wood is a cellulose material, and left in long contact with unprotected ferric material, it will cause rust. If the oil permeates the wood it lessens the rust causing properties of cellulose. In fact, a scabbard of any type of material is far from ideal as the storage place for a blade. In the case of keris, two of the most favoured woods for a wrongko are scented sandalwood and teak, especially burl teak, both these woods have high natural oil content. I use scented oil on all my South East Asian blades, on keris and other items considered to be tosan aji, because it is considered to be the respectful thing to do, on other blades because I always have the scented oil that I use on keris, close at hand, and it is easier for me to use this than something else. But I do not store unprotected blades in their scabbards (wrongkos) I oil all my blades and then I place that oiled blade into a plastic sleeve, usually I then store the plastic covered blade in its scabbard, sometimes I do not. Where the blade itself retains the smell of oil even after it has been thoroughly cleaned, the material from which the blade is made will be found to be open grained and porous. Albert Ballistol, and a number of other oils designed for use with firearms do provide very good protection for any object made of ferric material, and that includes edged weapons. However, when we are dealing with items of tosan aji, that is keris, tombak, pedang and other similar weapons from the Archipelago, it is traditional within these cultures, and most especially so in Jawa, to use scented oils. For those of us who wish to observe the correct pattern of behaviour in respect of tosan aji, the use of oils other than those deemed to be acceptable within the relevant cultures is not really an option. Last edited by A. G. Maisey; 8th December 2019 at 07:53 PM.

17th December 2019, 04:14 PM	#15
Interested Party Member Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: Eastern Sierra Posts: 505	Horn My family refinished gunstocks for 60+ years (1930s-2000) beginning with my grandad. His brother worked on antique furniture next door. I started sanding for them at 8 or 9. I wish I could remember all I knew as a kid. In my lifetime certain looks were based on Truoil. Especially for people who wanted a quick turnaround. I can say that holds up well there are pieces that I know we did over 50 years ago with Truoil that still look nice. It also dries very quickly and a few shades lighter than boiled linseed. Sometimes we would finish with it to add extra shine. Would beeswax or a beeswax mixture do well on horn?

25th November 2009, 06:48 AM	#1
M ELEY Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: NC, U.S.A. Posts: 2,184	I knew I had read that somewhere (English gunsmiths using linseed). Thanks, Stu! OK, so I used boiled, but should be using raw linseed. Now I just have to find some...

25th November 2009, 09:17 AM	#3
Dimasalang Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 264	Arts and Crafts stores carry RLO in small 8oz bottles. Artist use RLO to mix with their paint.

26th November 2009, 04:32 PM	#4
fearn Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,247	I love linseed oil too. It's got one problem though, which is that linseed oil on cotton rags can sometimes spontaneously combust, so make sure you dispose of it carefully!. I usually soap up the rags and dispose of them sopping wet. Best, F

26th November 2009, 10:07 PM	#5
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,048	Thanks for that Fearn. Just shows it doesn't matter how long you've used something you can always learn something new about it. I've used linseed oil, both raw and boiled, all my life, as had my father before me, and his great uncle, from whom he learnt his trade, and I've never heard about this spontaneous combustion thing. Do you know under what circumstances this will occur? Ever seen it happen? PS --- just googleised it. yep, its real alright. couldn't find anybody who had ever seen it happen, but according to the chemistry its possible, and manufacturers warn against it. Again, thanks Fearn for bringing this to our attention.

26th November 2009, 10:21 PM	#6
asomotif Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 2,235	Cotton rags and any kind of grease or oil may start to "selfheat". Same proces as in coal or a haystack. If you combine this with metal dust or turnings that are left after drilling in metal, you can get a tricky combination for a fire. Cotton rags with lineseed can also be laid down flat for the lineseed to dry before disposal. Risk is the sum of "chance" and "consequence". The chance of these rags selfcombusting is probably not that high. But the consequence if you have left them in the garbage can in the garage and return after a days work...

27th November 2009, 04:25 AM	#7
fearn Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,247	Yep. The problem is that the heating and ignition seems to be pretty unpredictable, otherwise you could carry a wad of cotton and linseed oil camping to light a fire. That unpredictability is the annoying part, and I've certainly never seen it. It's not hard to fix, so it's worth cleaning up properly. Otherwise, linseed's lovely stuff. Best, F

27th November 2009, 03:21 PM	#8
PUFF Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: 30 miles north of Bangkok, 20 miles south of Ayuthaya, Thailand Posts: 224	I use Renaissance Wax or alike for both metal and wooden parts. I found drying vegetable oils (linseed, tung) do not protect them from moisture well enough. Drying oil also darken the wood part too much. Non-drying oil like mineral or white oil may attract dust. Human or animal oil also attract pest (mice/insects) to take your scabbard as their snack.

12th December 2019, 12:05 PM	#11
Will M Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: In the wee woods north of Napanee Ontario Posts: 395	Birchwood casey Gunstock finish works very well for wood and dries fairly quickly. You can have it as a dull to gloss finish depending on coats applied and whether you rub it in to a gloss. Very little odour once dry and can be handled without any transfer. Scratches etc. can be quickly touched up.

12th December 2019, 08:08 PM	#12
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,048	When I mentioned commercial finishes in post 54(?) Birchwood Casey Truoil was what I had in mind. I prefer to build up a number of coats with this, then take the gloss down a bit by using 0000 steel wool, followed by wax. Once again, the preparation is the key.

12th December 2019, 09:57 PM	#13
Richard G Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 412	I find that if you have a wood that is already finished but just needs a bit of smartening up a vigorous polish with a good quality BEESWAX based furniture polish will do the job. For metal work I prefer Renaissance Wax, and if it possible, 'warmed' so that it can penetrate any pits created by rust. You can lightly buff this to a nice sheen. Regards Richard

13th December 2019, 12:22 AM	#14
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,048	All the traditional wood finishes require maintenance, dusting & a good quality furniture wax or furniture oil on a regular basis is all that is usually needed. Beeswax is a good traditional wax, but it is even better if mixed with carnauba wax and gum turpentine, especially if you want a shiny finish.