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#1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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got an old barung that, of all things, someone decide to chrome. at first i thought it was just taken cared of and maintained all these years. well, it was chromed
![]() i would like to remove the chrome; the question is, how? i thought about elctrolysis process but with that, i have to use muriatic acid, which i'm afraid it will ruin the blade. anyone has any suggestion? |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 637
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use muratic just have a pot of water nearby and do not leave it to long in the muratic . wear a mask when working with the acid
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#3 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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thanks ward.
any suggestion on the muriatic/water ratio? and how long should i leave it in? |
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#4 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,187
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Shame about the chrome, I know they used to do this in the early and mid 20c as a way of preservation. They even did this to US Civil War blades.
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#5 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
Posts: 2,196
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If you are really lucky when they chromed the blade it was done in triple chrome: copper, nickel and then chrome. The copper will help protect the blade from the acid when you remove the chrome plating.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
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if you are buying muratic that is used to clean pools use it undiluted. Leave it in to the count of a slow 10 dip it in water bring some x-fine steel wool across it rinse and shake excess water off and dip it again. keep repeating untill it is done. If you find it is not removeing change to the count of 20. watch muratic it is dangerous to work with and if you get the fumes in your lungs you can end up in hospital. Basically it is just dulitued sulperic and does not store well it weakens quickly especially with temperature changes use the left over to clean concrete do not dump it down drain
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#7 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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[QUOTE=Spunjer]got an old barung that, of all things, someone decide to chrome. at first i thought it was just taken cared of and maintained all these years. well, it was chromed
![]() LOL! I too have been fooled by the same. Here I was thinking about a previous owner, being so overzealous polishing a barung blade to a mirror like finish. Then I saw pittings, with resemblance to my mother's VW bug bumper. I too would like the chrome removed, but in fear of ruining the blade. Ho brah, If you decide to do it, show the results. Check out the shine on this one. |
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#8 | |
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Location: The Netherlands
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#9 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast USA
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#10 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,187
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Kino, that is a really nice puppy.
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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Batarra, The hilt is a simple carve, nothing really fancy. The wood is gorgeous, combine the 2, and I find a hidden beauty.
Quote:
what the.... why is that barung moving...NO..NO..SOMEONE CALL.. 9-1- |
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#12 |
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Location: Louisville, KY
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#13 |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 189
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Muriatic is a 33% dilution of hydrochloric acid, the main drawback/risk of using it is its propensity to form an acid fog that will coat every bit of steel (even stainless) in the room/building with a layer of very active rust, do not play with it in the same building your collection is housed in!!
I once got to check out 12 brand-new stainless elevators that needed to be replaced when the flooring contractor washed the newly-laid granite floor with muriatic to remove grout residue... expensive! |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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thanks for the warning, jeff.
i've decided that i will be doing this outdoors, hopefully this weekend, weather permitting... |
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#15 |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
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I do not disagree it is nasty to work with that is why I suggested a respirator it will eat thru the standard surgical gloves also and make you cough like a 90 year old
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#16 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Upstate New York, USA
Posts: 909
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Unfortunately the surface prep for plating is kind of harsh if done to insure a lasting finish and the surface then takes another hit upon removal. You might be better off selling this one to someone who wants a shiny wall-hanger and putting the proceeds to an example with a less traumatic past.
I have one large bolo which is chrome plated from the early 1970s. I bought it in a shop in Manila and presume that was the maker's intended finish in that case. It does well up on the wall. |
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#17 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
Posts: 2,196
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Unfortunately I now have one to add to the "What Were They Thinking" list of blades that have been chromed. As I really don't have much tied up in it I think that as soon as it warms up that I will try to remove the chrome just to see if it can be done without harming the blade. I will let everyone know if it works out or not.
Robert |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
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What a stinking shame. It always bugs the crap out of me.
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#19 |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
Posts: 2,196
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I know what you mean.
![]() Robert |
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#20 |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
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I dunno if i would automatically sell off such a blade as a wall hanging. Frankly, while i would certainly prefer a chrome-less blade, Kino's example is still quite beautiful, one worth holding on to....
BTW....does anyone know if the evil spirit of the blade actually dispatched Kino, and if so just where i can go to pick up his collection...? ![]() ![]() |
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#21 |
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Centerville, Kansas
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"BTW....does anyone know if the evil spirit of the blade actually dispatched Kino, and if so just where i can go to pick up his collection...?"
It's a secret ![]() Kino was alive and well as of October but I don't think that I've seen him post anything since. That doesn't mean he hasn't been lurking around though. ![]() I wouldn't say the one I posted would be considered a wall hanger by any means but it would be nice to see it the way that it was meant to look instead of the way it looks now. Robert |
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#22 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,187
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Since I didn't have the acids to do this, I had to take off chrome on a piece I am restoring right now the old fashioned way - sanding and polishing by hand.
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#23 |
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Location: Centerville, Kansas
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I have a friend that can remove the chrome by reverse plating but I will have to sand off the nickel myself. Then a light etch to see if there is any pattern present. The only real downside to this is that I have to take the sword completely apart.
Robert |
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#24 |
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Location: Louisville, KY
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Actually I misspoke - I had to sand off nickel plating, not chrome. Chrome is easier to take off.
Good luck Robert. |
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#25 |
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Location: Centerville, Kansas
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Jose, How did you remove the chrome on the one you are restoring?
Robert |
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#26 |
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Location: Louisville, KY
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Well, it was actually nickel plating, and I had to use several different grades of sand paper by hand. Then I polished it. There are still places where the plating exists and I am debating whether to take those off or not.
This was not as bad as a US Civil War foot officer's sword I restored for someone years ago that was double nickel plated. ![]() That one took a very long time. ![]() |
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