Ethnographic Arms & Armour
 

Go Back   Ethnographic Arms & Armour > Discussion Forums > Ethnographic Weapons
FAQ Calendar Today's Posts Search

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 31st July 2008, 06:58 PM   #1
Andrew
Member
 
Andrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 1,725
Default

Jeff is it worth trying to rework that blade and straighten it out again before you polish it?
Andrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 1st August 2008, 05:17 PM   #2
Jeff Pringle
Member
 
Jeff Pringle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 189
Default

It is to me, and it would need to be straightened to do the polishing correctly. Since the major warps were unfairly installed (if I’m reading the damage correctly, of course), and since with Japanese blades you can pin down the time and place of manufacture, even the individual smith, by looking in to the polished steel – it feels like the right thing to do.
It can be a risky operation, since you never know when metal fatigue will cause a blade with a long history of flexing to snap, but I was able to coax it through and it is mostly straight now, just a couple minor adjustments left.
Jeff Pringle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 1st August 2008, 05:30 PM   #3
Andrew
Member
 
Andrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 1,725
Default

Nice! Are you going to try and heat treat it again, or leave well-enough alone? What about the mountings?

Love to see pics when you get a polish going. Any chance you could take pics along the way as you restore it?
Andrew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 1st August 2008, 06:03 PM   #4
Henk
Member
 
Henk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,209
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew
Love to see pics when you get a polish going. Any chance you could take pics along the way as you restore it?
I'm convinced many members would like to follow the process by pictures and explanation. A great project to restore a magnificent piece to its old glory.
We are ancious to see the results.
Henk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5th August 2008, 10:07 AM   #5
Jeff Pringle
Member
 
Jeff Pringle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 189
Default

No desire to re-heat treat the blade, since I’m interested in what’s left of the original heat treating and it feels like that would be a final insult to this blade which has already had a tough life. The hilt could get some surface-level help, but not ‘til after the blade is in better shape. I don’t think I’ll disassemble the grip, which will limit the scope of work on that area.
A photo essay sounds like a good idea, though this isn’t a front-burner project so it might go on for a while! The final result will be far short of the blade’s former glory, though, it is too far gone to be more than a shadow of its original self. I’m thinking of splitting the difference between a conservation and restoration, restoring it back to a possibly imaginary point just before it fell into the hands of people unaware of basic sword care – but there is a lot of deep rust and other damage that will remain.

I used a manual press to remove the bends and ripples, since it has good control at the high force levels needed to take out that curve. There were also a lot of bends, so it was helpful in isolating them one by one. I held the blade against a flat surface and marked where it touched, then used blocks of wood at those points to transmit the force in the right direction.
Attached Images
  
Jeff Pringle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 5th August 2008, 09:00 PM   #6
mross
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 478
Default

It looks like the butt cap may be a kashira. Is it possible the handguard is a reworked tsuba? It also looks like it could hava a fuchi there also. Intresting to say the least. Further look also appears to have a seppa next to the tsuba like guard?
mross is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7th August 2008, 05:50 PM   #7
Jeff Pringle
Member
 
Jeff Pringle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 189
Default

Yes, the grip is wearing a fuchi and kashira in brass, the guard is a copper tsuba with 1/3 hacked off indicating that the new owner was right-handed and liked to carry the sword with the grip close-in to the body (well, I guess most swords are worn close-in compared to the Japanese style) – two copper seppa.
Next step is to remove the surface rust with a fine-grit stone to see what’s really going on, determine the course of further action; and polish a small section to check out the steel and hamon.
Attached Images
  
Jeff Pringle is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:16 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Posts are regarded as being copyrighted by their authors and the act of posting material is deemed to be a granting of an irrevocable nonexclusive license for display here.