Mandara mountains tabouka

[Jim McDougall]

Hi Tim,
Thank you so much for displaying the reference which shows this weapon is indeed Mandala, which reference is it?
It's funny, I've always added references and page numbers etc. in my posts as a matter of habit, as well as very academic colleagues who emphasized the importance of adding such supporting information. Working without my resources at hand I rely very much on past posted material in the archives, and the few resources I typically have with me. In any case this was good exercise in trying to identify this sword, and I appreciate this reference now added to my notes.

The common goal I share with the staff and many of the members here is virtually building a resource network that we can all share in researching and learning about these weapons. In the time I spent reviewing posts to try to confirm the identification of this sword, I must say your contributions have been key to the core of knowledge here on African weapons, along with of course Freddy, Lew and many of the others who have added vital observations.

Now that I know this weapon is from Mandala, I also now see how such a long weapon was worn (very nicely shown ! and please thank your wife for her kind assistance).

Nicely done Tim!
All the best,
Jim

[Tim Simmons]

The sword can be drawn when the arm is moved so that the elbow is pointing straight out behind the body.

In forge welding more than two pieces of metal can be joined. Metal can be introduced to the work. In the sword you can see that for the environment and one just has to study the materials of the piece, I would say this was the work of a highly skilled smith an artist no-less.

The dog is called "Patch" he is a "Parson Russell" He works as a PAT dog -Pets As Therapy. They are hard to train, lively with a very strong hunting instinct he is always ready to fight. He is neutered and muzzled when let free, glad I am not a dog. I would not recommend then even if he is sweet and loving to people.

Forgot to mention the pictures are from "Waffen aus Zentral-Afrika" a simply most have book. They come up quite frequently on Belgian ebay so watch out for a copy. Thanks for all the interest, I received the club I mentioned at the start of the thread. I am saving it to post on Christmas day for relaxation when mother inlaw has gone home .

[Jeff Pringle]

As a swordsmith with extensive forgewelding experience who has shared shop space with welders and architectural blacksmiths, I’d have to say the discontinuity in the metal of this blade appears to be completely consistent with an arc/gas weld done long after the forging of the blade.
It would be impossible to get the metal to look that way via a forge welding process.
That’s what the photos are saying, but of course I defer judgment to those who can see the actual sword.

[Jim McDougall]

Thank you Tim!

[Tim Simmons]

It is probably best to have an open verdict on the weld. In my opinion it was done at the time of and in the forging of the blade. My reasons are-

The lack of any burn at the site, bluing or straw discolouration . There is only the most basic finishing to the metal. A new weld on any piece of metal would make rather a lot of mess. Even a high tech spot weld leaves a blue halo.

You can see in the pictures thin metal layers are worked and spread by hammer action. I have some other African pieces I will get day light pictures of to make comparisons with.

Finally and not wanting to be rude to anyone. Perhaps the work is skilled and delicate beyond the average metalworker particularly when they are really only used to working in a western environment with plentiful western materials.

Would such a large later added weld not affect the temper? The temper is even through the blade.

[Tim Simmons]

look at these neat little gas welds. There are places around the sword weld that have not been cleaned. There does not seem to be any signs of the latter application of massive heat.

I bet this chap thinks he is a really smart dude. He probably wares boots and gloves, and has a work bench!

[katana]

Hi Tim,
the small neat welds on the bike tank are tack welds, to hold its 'structure' before the final welded seam.

If the blade was indeed arc/gas welded, it could easily be done in small increments leaving the blade to cool 'between' welds. This would limit heat transference (by convection) to the surrounding blade. The heat with welding tends to be 'localised' to the immediate area (dependent on duration of welding, thickness of metal, etc)
Also I have found a technique whereby the 'hot' weld is hammered to limit welding distortion.

If this technique was used on this blade ...it could explain the confusion.


"....Welding Distortion

Welding Distortion is caused by the localised heat that welding creates along with shrinking of the weld metal as the weld cools. It is difficult to avoid welding distortion but a few simple steps will help minimise the problem. If possible plan the job to avoid long welding runs. If long welding runs are unavoidable use plenty of tacks, weld with the welder turned as low as possible and do a series of short welding runs, allowing the workpiece to cool between welding runs. Using backing plates to help take welding heat away will also help.

Welding Distortion can be corrected from butt and outside corner welds by peening. Do this by holding a metal block behind the weld and peening evenly along the weld with a hammer. This process stretches the weld metal to correct the shrinking that occurred during cooling. Avoid over peening as this will overstretch the weld and re-distort the workpiece....."

http://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/welding.html


Kind Regards David