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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Santa Barbara, California
Posts: 301
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Just a thought; what would happen if the ingot was allowed to cool in a strong magnetic field? Would the dendrites align with the field?
Something for the experimenters to try! |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 133
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Interesting question. However I do not think so, if you look at castings, the dendrites grow from the outside inward. You get a chill layer (sorry I forget the correct term, need second cup of coffee)
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 116
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hi all
this is an interesting post.. - alloy has lots to do with the coloring but so does the etch... - even the quenched steel will show up darker.. for awhile the blades i've made... sometimes have a grey hue all the way to a bluish color.. but yet I alter my formula very little.... except for the occasional frankenwootz .. personally, i wouldn't alter museum pieces with nital... but for my steel, it brings out an accurate picture ... example: http://dark.unitz.ca/~gthomas/myweb/p1.JPG the rest of the post is on primal bout half way down the post http://p222.ezboard.com/fprimalfires...icID=156.topic recently.... Jeff Pringle posted a wootz knife he made..... and used an iron sulphate etch..... he said he had to add sulphuric acid to it and it worked well... but it was different than my fav (nital) here... take a peek http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=27383 hope that helps a little Greg |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 133
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Yes, nital and ferric chloride will give a different etch. Other factors which need to be considered are: if you want to darken the globular cementite or the matrix, which basically can be ferrite or pearlite. Sort of a negative or positive effect, dpending which one you want to darken. I have also heard the Worstershire sauce works well. And yes, any additional trace elements can also effect the pattern.
So I have been told.. when they re etch Japanese blades, they first do an elemental map of the blade to see what elements are where (phosphorus, etc). Then they choose the etchant to bring out the best pattern. |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 116
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Worstershire sauce... .. that is something I haven't tried.. but I will surely give it a go
- i've tried Alum with abit of acid... but I could never get it to work right... it does make your hands a nice purple I aggree with all my heart that the elemental make up does funny things to the etch... even two blades from the same ingot can take on subtle hue differences pending how they were forged and quenched in most of my blades... the etched matrix is tempered martensite.... even the swords i've made were in this state too.. but this summer i'll have to experiment with pearlite - - in plain damascus... even vinnegar will work well... but I find it etches better if it used a couple times.... therefore its' more of acetic acid and an iron salt... --- think those 2 components are the key.... the acid and the iron salt thank you Greg |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 905
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Shazaam !
A really old post comes back ! ![]() ( I was looking for informations about etching blades on kattar daggers and found this post ... ) I have an old all rusty kattar with perhaps wootz/damas blade and with little gold koftgari remains on the handle. I wonder if an vinegar-acetic acid bath will destroy the koftgari... Any advice for clean it in the best way ? Thank you |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Europe
Posts: 2,718
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Funny to see such an old thread again.
francantolin, I would clean the blade and etch it, to see if it shown any pattern, and then clean the side guards and the cross bar carefully, not to remove the remaining gold. Montino, I hope you take good care of your nice katar, and I was surprised to see, that no one of us told you from where it is. Hendley in his book Damascene Work in India, plate 25 writes that it is 'false damascening in gold from Kotah. To me it looks like a Deccani kater decorated in the north. |
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