My first Dha ....a few questions please

PUFF · 19th November 2007, 12:08 PM

Traditionally, native people in this area made rattan strip with knife like this...

But, if you try local furniture makers, you may find one at reasonable size... like this
http://www.marshallmcgurk.com/SitUpon/diysales.htm

You can follow Turk Head technique. These pictures may also help.
http://www.thaiblades.com/forums/sho...CB%C7%D2%C2%2A
http://www.thaiblades.com/forums/sho...A1%CA%D2%C1%2A
http://www.thaiblades.com/forums/sho...CB%C7%D2%C2%2A

In one of those link. You may notice a metal can with holes. That 's a special tool for making very very thin strips. Dont forget to soak the strips and trim their nodes before passing through the hole(s).

katana · 19th November 2007, 08:39 PM

Hi Kronckew, I (again) appreciate your advice and help.

Hi Puff,
thank you for the additional information and links. It is always good to see the tools and techniques used by locals (which are used by the makers of the weapons we all cherish)

Kind Regards David

Ferguson · 19th November 2007, 09:14 PM

Information on braiding rattan rings. Hope it's helpful.

http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=4844

Steve

katana · 19th November 2007, 10:28 PM

Thank you Steve,
excellent post and well executed ( well it is a weapons forum

)

I think it would be a very good idea if your 'how to' thread was added to a new 'sticky' catergory that others could add to. eg how to ...make a scabbard, re-hilt a Tulwar, replacing/ repairing damaged brass work etc. The need for minor repairs and restorations seem more common these days.....or maybe because interest in Ethnic weapons is increasing, people are more inclined to improve the condition of their pieces.

Either way it would be a good resource for 'repair information'

Anyone any thoughts ?

David

PUFF · 20th November 2007, 11:58 AM

More info,

- Traditional hilt material 's bamboo or giant rattan. Their elasticity will absorb most of hand shock. Most of modern tourish type have hardwood handle because it "looks" stronger and nicer finish.

- Although some blades were mount with no glued (rely on friction). Most of them (at this age) were glued with hot-set resin. You may not want to DIY hot-set method for many reasons (hard to find material, complicate method, risk of removing blade temper etc...). IMO: epoxy glue will do the job.

- Scabbard could be made of teak wood. It has fine grain and not very hard to be carved. Teak wood will take some degree of finish. And it also has anti-insect property.

katana · 20th November 2007, 04:20 PM

Thanks Puff

After Dan's comments about the length of the tang possibly being longer than usual I decided to fully remove the blade. The Tang is 4.5" (11.5cms) long , the blade is 19.5" (49.5 cms) this gives a ratio of 1:4.3. (previously I used a magnet to check length of tang whilst still in the handle and it was only 3mm out....so a magnet 'test' seems quite accurate for those that want to measure their own tangs)
Assuming that longer blades would require a longer tang a 30" blade would have a tang of 7" (well 6.976" if you wanted to be accurate

)

Does that seem about right?

Mark · 20th November 2007, 10:41 PM

That is a tad on the long side. A 2.5-3 inch tang would be more typical. I don't have very many dha with a handle loose enough to remove, so I think I will try the magnet test. Clever idea. Ian once posted a series of blade:tang ratios, but I don't have the link. I'll add it here if I can find it.

20th November 2007, 04:20 PM	#6
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	Thanks Puff After Dan's comments about the length of the tang possibly being longer than usual I decided to fully remove the blade. The Tang is 4.5" (11.5cms) long , the blade is 19.5" (49.5 cms) this gives a ratio of 1:4.3. (previously I used a magnet to check length of tang whilst still in the handle and it was only 3mm out....so a magnet 'test' seems quite accurate for those that want to measure their own tangs) Assuming that longer blades would require a longer tang a 30" blade would have a tang of 7" (well 6.976" if you wanted to be accurate ) Does that seem about right? Attached Images

19th November 2007, 12:08 PM	#1
PUFF Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: 30 miles north of Bangkok, 20 miles south of Ayuthaya, Thailand Posts: 224	Traditionally, native people in this area made rattan strip with knife like this... But, if you try local furniture makers, you may find one at reasonable size... like this http://www.marshallmcgurk.com/SitUpon/diysales.htm You can follow Turk Head technique. These pictures may also help. http://www.thaiblades.com/forums/sho...CB%C7%D2%C2%2A http://www.thaiblades.com/forums/sho...A1%CA%D2%C1%2A http://www.thaiblades.com/forums/sho...CB%C7%D2%C2%2A In one of those link. You may notice a metal can with holes. That 's a special tool for making very very thin strips. Dont forget to soak the strips and trim their nodes before passing through the hole(s).

19th November 2007, 08:39 PM	#2
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	Hi Kronckew, I (again) appreciate your advice and help. Hi Puff, thank you for the additional information and links. It is always good to see the tools and techniques used by locals (which are used by the makers of the weapons we all cherish) Kind Regards David

19th November 2007, 09:14 PM	#3
Ferguson Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Kernersville, NC, USA Posts: 793	Information on braiding rattan rings. Hope it's helpful. http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=4844 Steve

19th November 2007, 10:28 PM	#4
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	Thank you Steve, excellent post and well executed ( well it is a weapons forum ) I think it would be a very good idea if your 'how to' thread was added to a new 'sticky' catergory that others could add to. eg how to ...make a scabbard, re-hilt a Tulwar, replacing/ repairing damaged brass work etc. The need for minor repairs and restorations seem more common these days.....or maybe because interest in Ethnic weapons is increasing, people are more inclined to improve the condition of their pieces. Either way it would be a good resource for 'repair information' Anyone any thoughts ? David

20th November 2007, 11:58 AM	#5
PUFF Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: 30 miles north of Bangkok, 20 miles south of Ayuthaya, Thailand Posts: 224	More info, - Traditional hilt material 's bamboo or giant rattan. Their elasticity will absorb most of hand shock. Most of modern tourish type have hardwood handle because it "looks" stronger and nicer finish. - Although some blades were mount with no glued (rely on friction). Most of them (at this age) were glued with hot-set resin. You may not want to DIY hot-set method for many reasons (hard to find material, complicate method, risk of removing blade temper etc...). IMO: epoxy glue will do the job. - Scabbard could be made of teak wood. It has fine grain and not very hard to be carved. Teak wood will take some degree of finish. And it also has anti-insect property.

20th November 2007, 10:41 PM	#7
Mark Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Posts: 987	That is a tad on the long side. A 2.5-3 inch tang would be more typical. I don't have very many dha with a handle loose enough to remove, so I think I will try the magnet test. Clever idea. Ian once posted a series of blade:tang ratios, but I don't have the link. I'll add it here if I can find it.