Tulwar scabbard

Jens Nordlunde · 26th March 2007, 05:03 PM

Very well done. I would like to see some pictures when you have the fabric on the scabbard. What kind of wood did you use for the scabbard?
Jens

Pukka Bundook · 26th March 2007, 06:50 PM

Hello Jens.
I do not remember what the wood was, I was given it and was led to understand it was from Australia.
Nice straight grain and rather hard.

Will add a picture when cover is added.
Pleased you like it so far.....

Richard.

josh stout · 26th March 2007, 07:04 PM

On the subject of red over gold, this was also quite popular in Tibet and China. So if the Persians also did it, it seems that it was universal if somewhat rare.

Here is an example of the remains of gold and red paint on some shuang jian.
Josh

http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j6...duation346.jpg

katana · 26th March 2007, 08:54 PM

Hi Richard,
well done scabbard looks ace

I assume you traced the outline of the blade on two planks of wood, chiselled the 'depressions' to accept the blade, cut the scabbard halves from the plank. Joined the halves (temporary ?) to check blade fitted, once OK . Joined the halves and 'finished' the external surfaces. Any additional info would be appreciated as I have several 'scabbardless' swords I would like to sheath.

As to scabbard 'coverings' if you are going to use a cloth....I think I am right in saying that a cotton/canvas backing should be between the covering material and wood.

Jens Nordlunde · 26th March 2007, 09:38 PM

Hi Josh,

Nice to see you here

. You are right about the gold/red, I wonder why I did not think about it?

Jens

Pukka Bundook · 27th March 2007, 02:17 PM

Dave,
There's not much to add to what you have already deduced about making a scabbard.
In fact, that's about exactly what I did.!.........
Except I drew around blade on one piece of wood, as they'd fit inside each other's curve, if you get mi drift!

Only thing to remember is to flip the blade over before you draw 'round it the second time!!
With the 'troughs' cut, I lay the blade in the cut-out troughs, and tried "drawing" it, watching for any area it would 'ride up' out of the channel when drawn,, then cut out tight spots.
Once I had it cut out and clamped together, and had clearance for blade to draw, I cut out the out-side lines very close to finished size.
This was to avoid cutting through the walls when finishing.

Also, put a witness mark across both halves when everything fits together right, before gluing.

When glued, I greased the blade a bit so it wouldn't stick, and ran it in and out, to make sure no glue globs would set and interfere with sword passage.
I kept doing this now and again, as glue dried.

Only other thing, on a lot of wood, when you've "stabbed in" with the chisel on your initial pencil line, it's often Much easier to cut with chisel across the grain, to-wards your initial stab in cut.
(Rather than trying to run chisel down the grain, where the grain tends to have a mind of its own!!)
Thats all I know about it.........
Though I'm sure there are chaps here that know a whole lot more!!

Re the canvas or cotton, before velvet, You probabnly know a lot more about it than I do.
On this one, the bit of rotton velvet that had survived, was glued straight to the wood, overlapped and not stitched in place at all.

Can you tell me what the normal application process was?

Thanks Dave,

Richard.

katana · 27th March 2007, 07:17 PM

Hi Richard,
thanks for the additional info

As to the cotton/canvas backing....It probably depends on the 'finishing' material. I think the idea of the backing is to 'smooth out' the surface so that finer fabrics appear smoother. Velvet would not show any minor imperfections in the woodwork below.......I am not suggesting there are 'imperfections' in your own scabbard

(it actually looks very nice, the fittings set it off nicely...but I do not think the wood would have been left 'uncovered' originally....unfortunately) Glueing seems to be the normal method, however I do not know what sort of adhesive would have been used originally. Most modern 'contact' adhesives should be OK....but I would recommend that you 'seal' the wood first by applying a coat of the adhesive to the scabbard and letting it dry.....and then use the glue to bond the fabric 'coating'. I have one velvet covered scabbard which has the 'seam' ( folded edge) hidden beneath some decorative 'edging' but do not know whether this is traditional.I want to make a scabbard for the khanda but would like to find a 'period' looking covering for the wooden core......and the 'suspension' rings/mountings will have to be fabricated.(again I will have to find examples). I really like those on your scabbard.....sufficently ornate without being 'over the top'.

One other thought....the scabbard furniture...was it fixed/riveted to the scabbard or bonded/glued to the scabbard?

Regards David

26th March 2007, 09:38 PM	#5
Jens Nordlunde Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Europe Posts: 2,718	Hi Josh, Nice to see you here. You are right about the gold/red, I wonder why I did not think about it? Jens

27th March 2007, 07:17 PM	#7
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	Hi Richard, thanks for the additional info As to the cotton/canvas backing....It probably depends on the 'finishing' material. I think the idea of the backing is to 'smooth out' the surface so that finer fabrics appear smoother. Velvet would not show any minor imperfections in the woodwork below.......I am not suggesting there are 'imperfections' in your own scabbard (it actually looks very nice, the fittings set it off nicely...but I do not think the wood would have been left 'uncovered' originally....unfortunately) Glueing seems to be the normal method, however I do not know what sort of adhesive would have been used originally. Most modern 'contact' adhesives should be OK....but I would recommend that you 'seal' the wood first by applying a coat of the adhesive to the scabbard and letting it dry.....and then use the glue to bond the fabric 'coating'. I have one velvet covered scabbard which has the 'seam' ( folded edge) hidden beneath some decorative 'edging' but do not know whether this is traditional.I want to make a scabbard for the khanda but would like to find a 'period' looking covering for the wooden core......and the 'suspension' rings/mountings will have to be fabricated.(again I will have to find examples). I really like those on your scabbard.....sufficently ornate without being 'over the top'. One other thought....the scabbard furniture...was it fixed/riveted to the scabbard or bonded/glued to the scabbard? Regards David Last edited by katana; 27th March 2007 at 07:29 PM.

26th March 2007, 05:03 PM	#1
Jens Nordlunde Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Europe Posts: 2,718	Very well done. I would like to see some pictures when you have the fabric on the scabbard. What kind of wood did you use for the scabbard? Jens

26th March 2007, 06:50 PM	#2
Pukka Bundook Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 803	Hello Jens. I do not remember what the wood was, I was given it and was led to understand it was from Australia. Nice straight grain and rather hard. Will add a picture when cover is added. Pleased you like it so far..... Richard.

26th March 2007, 07:04 PM	#3
josh stout Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 407	On the subject of red over gold, this was also quite popular in Tibet and China. So if the Persians also did it, it seems that it was universal if somewhat rare. Here is an example of the remains of gold and red paint on some shuang jian. Josh http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j6...duation346.jpg

26th March 2007, 08:54 PM	#4
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	Hi Richard, well done scabbard looks ace I assume you traced the outline of the blade on two planks of wood, chiselled the 'depressions' to accept the blade, cut the scabbard halves from the plank. Joined the halves (temporary ?) to check blade fitted, once OK . Joined the halves and 'finished' the external surfaces. Any additional info would be appreciated as I have several 'scabbardless' swords I would like to sheath. As to scabbard 'coverings' if you are going to use a cloth....I think I am right in saying that a cotton/canvas backing should be between the covering material and wood.

27th March 2007, 02:17 PM	#6
Pukka Bundook Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 803	Dave, There's not much to add to what you have already deduced about making a scabbard. In fact, that's about exactly what I did.!......... Except I drew around blade on one piece of wood, as they'd fit inside each other's curve, if you get mi drift! Only thing to remember is to flip the blade over before you draw 'round it the second time!! With the 'troughs' cut, I lay the blade in the cut-out troughs, and tried "drawing" it, watching for any area it would 'ride up' out of the channel when drawn,, then cut out tight spots. Once I had it cut out and clamped together, and had clearance for blade to draw, I cut out the out-side lines very close to finished size. This was to avoid cutting through the walls when finishing. Also, put a witness mark across both halves when everything fits together right, before gluing. When glued, I greased the blade a bit so it wouldn't stick, and ran it in and out, to make sure no glue globs would set and interfere with sword passage. I kept doing this now and again, as glue dried. Only other thing, on a lot of wood, when you've "stabbed in" with the chisel on your initial pencil line, it's often Much easier to cut with chisel across the grain, to-wards your initial stab in cut. (Rather than trying to run chisel down the grain, where the grain tends to have a mind of its own!!) Thats all I know about it......... Though I'm sure there are chaps here that know a whole lot more!! Re the canvas or cotton, before velvet, You probabnly know a lot more about it than I do. On this one, the bit of rotton velvet that had survived, was glued straight to the wood, overlapped and not stitched in place at all. Can you tell me what the normal application process was? Thanks Dave, Richard.