GREAT RUST REMOVAL process.

Bill M · 10th September 2006, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drdavid

Hi Bill, I believe this was just pineapple juice out of a can.
drd

Will give it a try. Guess the can is rust free.

tom hyle · 11th September 2006, 05:47 PM

Is that chisel bevelled? It looks more like a jimpul? I'm currently all about the vinegar.

Bill M · 11th September 2006, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom hyle

Is that chisel bevelled? It looks more like a jimpul? I'm currently all about the vinegar.

Think it is a jimpul. What is the difference in a jimpul and a langgai?

tom hyle · 18th September 2006, 08:50 PM

what's a langgai?

Ian · 19th September 2006, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom hyle

what's a langgai?

See here Tom.
http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2060

utami · 21st September 2006, 05:15 AM

Thanks alot bill and other fellows for sharing this tip

Bill, do you have some picture of the mandau before using your tip

i would like to see comparation before and after rust removal.

Regarding the pienapple rust removal, we usually used the Pineapples/ Pineapples skin to remove hard rust. Just rubbed the rusted area with Pineapples skin couple of times until the rust fade away.

just my 2 cent

The Double D · 8th February 2007, 07:33 PM

We are going to find out how good the pineapple method is this weekend.

I got this iklwa today and it has some serious rust issues.

So here are the before pictures.

I'll post the after later...

katana · 9th February 2007, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Marsh

Will give it a try. Guess the can is rust free.

Hi Bill,
most tins of pineapples have syrup (water/sugar) as its 'juice'.....so its best to check the ingredients. Perhaps a better suggestion could be pure pineapple juice in a carton.

Great thread Guys......

Daniel · 10th February 2007, 12:33 AM

I haven't cleaned a lot of blades, but as an antique tool collector, I've had to deal with a lot of rust on iron planes, steel chisels, etc.
In the past, when confronted with heavy rust on intricate surfaces, a soak for several days in a solution of half and half vinegar and water will dissolve the rust and allow removal with a light pass of steel wool. Pineapple juice probably works in much the same way. While I have heard of it, I have not used the electric current method, but I suspect the results are rather similar to the acid method. The downside to the vinegar bath is that it not only removes surface rust, but it also removes the pockets of rust inside the metal. So while you clean away all the rust, you end up with ugly surface pitting. Also, the surface finish has a "pickled" look. To make the piece presentable, you have to re-patinate the metal.
If the item is important and warrants the work, I agree with the hand-labor method. 2/0 steel wool and large amounts of WD-40 plus a lot of elbow grease removes the surface rust, polishes the surface of the metal, but leaves a nice warm patina, and does not expose the pitting. After this treatment, a little touch-up of the edges where the patina has been worn through is often helpful. I've found that a quick and easy way to do touch-up patination is with a dilute solution of gunsmith blueing and browning chemicals. You can pick up Some Birchwood Casey touch-up blueing and browning solution at most gun stores. I dilute them with water, so they work much more slowly. I warm up the part in the oven and lightly wipe the surface with the diluted browning solution, followed by a pass with the diluted bluing solution. It cuts the brightness of the bare spots. After it dries, you can polish with 4/0 steel wool, and protect the finish with a bit of mineral oil. The result looks attractive and natural. And it's easy to control the appearance once you've had a little practice.
DD

11th September 2006, 05:47 PM	#2
tom hyle Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 1,254	Is that chisel bevelled? It looks more like a jimpul? I'm currently all about the vinegar.

18th September 2006, 08:50 PM	#4
tom hyle Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 1,254	what's a langgai?

21st September 2006, 05:15 AM	#6
utami Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Java, Indonesia Posts: 49	Thanks alot bill and other fellows for sharing this tip Bill, do you have some picture of the mandau before using your tip i would like to see comparation before and after rust removal. Regarding the pienapple rust removal, we usually used the Pineapples/ Pineapples skin to remove hard rust. Just rubbed the rusted area with Pineapples skin couple of times until the rust fade away. just my 2 cent

8th February 2007, 07:33 PM	#7
The Double D Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: On the banks of Cut Bank Creek, Montana Posts: 189	We are going to find out how good the pineapple method is this weekend. I got this iklwa today and it has some serious rust issues. So here are the before pictures. I'll post the after later...

10th February 2007, 12:33 AM	#9
Daniel Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: California Posts: 16	I haven't cleaned a lot of blades, but as an antique tool collector, I've had to deal with a lot of rust on iron planes, steel chisels, etc. In the past, when confronted with heavy rust on intricate surfaces, a soak for several days in a solution of half and half vinegar and water will dissolve the rust and allow removal with a light pass of steel wool. Pineapple juice probably works in much the same way. While I have heard of it, I have not used the electric current method, but I suspect the results are rather similar to the acid method. The downside to the vinegar bath is that it not only removes surface rust, but it also removes the pockets of rust inside the metal. So while you clean away all the rust, you end up with ugly surface pitting. Also, the surface finish has a "pickled" look. To make the piece presentable, you have to re-patinate the metal. If the item is important and warrants the work, I agree with the hand-labor method. 2/0 steel wool and large amounts of WD-40 plus a lot of elbow grease removes the surface rust, polishes the surface of the metal, but leaves a nice warm patina, and does not expose the pitting. After this treatment, a little touch-up of the edges where the patina has been worn through is often helpful. I've found that a quick and easy way to do touch-up patination is with a dilute solution of gunsmith blueing and browning chemicals. You can pick up Some Birchwood Casey touch-up blueing and browning solution at most gun stores. I dilute them with water, so they work much more slowly. I warm up the part in the oven and lightly wipe the surface with the diluted browning solution, followed by a pass with the diluted bluing solution. It cuts the brightness of the bare spots. After it dries, you can polish with 4/0 steel wool, and protect the finish with a bit of mineral oil. The result looks attractive and natural. And it's easy to control the appearance once you've had a little practice. DD