GREAT RUST REMOVAL process.

Mare Rosu · 9th September 2006, 11:39 PM

Hi all,
I have used this product,"Evapo-Rust" for rust removal and it worked well for me.
The only caution is that at the air/solution interface line ( where the solution ends and the air starts) will cause an fine etch line

so the answer to that is to submerge the blade totally if possible or keep the solution moving by wiping the solution over the blade.
This is the link to a source for the product, cheapest one that I found, and there are others as well. http://www.theruststore.com/
Read and follow the instructions on the container.
The fine etch line it very light and easy to remove but it is better not to have it there in the first place.

If anyone does use this product get back with us and let us know how you made out. It saved me a lot of work and no I do not have stock in the company,

Gene

drdavid · 10th September 2006, 07:47 AM

Hi,
as mentioned many times before simple things like pineapple juice and some elbow grease work well too. I just had a pedang blade cleaned in this manner followed by ferric chloride treatment to bring up the pattern. Whilst I realise some prefer to leave blades 'as is', in a heavily laminated blade such as this one the skill of the maker and the beauty of the blade might have never been seen again without a clean up like this. There is a before and after of a section of the blade and then a full view of the results.
DrD

Bill M · 10th September 2006, 12:22 PM

i have heard that pineapple juice is a good rust remover and certainly seems in everyday use in Java for that purpose.

How do you prepare it? Do you put pineapple slices in a blender? Buy ready made pienapple juice?

drdavid · 10th September 2006, 12:29 PM

Hi Bill, I believe this was just pineapple juice out of a can.
drd

Bill M · 10th September 2006, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drdavid

Hi Bill, I believe this was just pineapple juice out of a can.
drd

Will give it a try. Guess the can is rust free.

tom hyle · 11th September 2006, 05:47 PM

Is that chisel bevelled? It looks more like a jimpul? I'm currently all about the vinegar.

Bill M · 11th September 2006, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom hyle

Is that chisel bevelled? It looks more like a jimpul? I'm currently all about the vinegar.

Think it is a jimpul. What is the difference in a jimpul and a langgai?

katana · 9th February 2007, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Marsh

Will give it a try. Guess the can is rust free.

Hi Bill,
most tins of pineapples have syrup (water/sugar) as its 'juice'.....so its best to check the ingredients. Perhaps a better suggestion could be pure pineapple juice in a carton.

Great thread Guys......

Daniel · 10th February 2007, 12:33 AM

I haven't cleaned a lot of blades, but as an antique tool collector, I've had to deal with a lot of rust on iron planes, steel chisels, etc.
In the past, when confronted with heavy rust on intricate surfaces, a soak for several days in a solution of half and half vinegar and water will dissolve the rust and allow removal with a light pass of steel wool. Pineapple juice probably works in much the same way. While I have heard of it, I have not used the electric current method, but I suspect the results are rather similar to the acid method. The downside to the vinegar bath is that it not only removes surface rust, but it also removes the pockets of rust inside the metal. So while you clean away all the rust, you end up with ugly surface pitting. Also, the surface finish has a "pickled" look. To make the piece presentable, you have to re-patinate the metal.
If the item is important and warrants the work, I agree with the hand-labor method. 2/0 steel wool and large amounts of WD-40 plus a lot of elbow grease removes the surface rust, polishes the surface of the metal, but leaves a nice warm patina, and does not expose the pitting. After this treatment, a little touch-up of the edges where the patina has been worn through is often helpful. I've found that a quick and easy way to do touch-up patination is with a dilute solution of gunsmith blueing and browning chemicals. You can pick up Some Birchwood Casey touch-up blueing and browning solution at most gun stores. I dilute them with water, so they work much more slowly. I warm up the part in the oven and lightly wipe the surface with the diluted browning solution, followed by a pass with the diluted bluing solution. It cuts the brightness of the bare spots. After it dries, you can polish with 4/0 steel wool, and protect the finish with a bit of mineral oil. The result looks attractive and natural. And it's easy to control the appearance once you've had a little practice.
DD

9th September 2006, 11:39 PM	#1
Mare Rosu Deceased Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: USA, DEEP SOUTH, GEORGIA, Y'all hear? Posts: 121	Chemically removing rust Hi all, I have used this product,"Evapo-Rust" for rust removal and it worked well for me. The only caution is that at the air/solution interface line ( where the solution ends and the air starts) will cause an fine etch line so the answer to that is to submerge the blade totally if possible or keep the solution moving by wiping the solution over the blade. This is the link to a source for the product, cheapest one that I found, and there are others as well. http://www.theruststore.com/ Read and follow the instructions on the container. The fine etch line it very light and easy to remove but it is better not to have it there in the first place. If anyone does use this product get back with us and let us know how you made out. It saved me a lot of work and no I do not have stock in the company, Gene

10th September 2006, 07:47 AM	#2
drdavid Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Australia Posts: 372	pineapple juice Hi, as mentioned many times before simple things like pineapple juice and some elbow grease work well too. I just had a pedang blade cleaned in this manner followed by ferric chloride treatment to bring up the pattern. Whilst I realise some prefer to leave blades 'as is', in a heavily laminated blade such as this one the skill of the maker and the beauty of the blade might have never been seen again without a clean up like this. There is a before and after of a section of the blade and then a full view of the results. DrD Attached Images

10th September 2006, 12:22 PM	#3
Bill M Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: USA Georgia Posts: 1,599	i have heard that pineapple juice is a good rust remover and certainly seems in everyday use in Java for that purpose. How do you prepare it? Do you put pineapple slices in a blender? Buy ready made pienapple juice?

10th September 2006, 12:29 PM	#4
drdavid Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Australia Posts: 372	Hi Bill, I believe this was just pineapple juice out of a can. drd

11th September 2006, 05:47 PM	#6
tom hyle Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Houston, TX, USA Posts: 1,254	Is that chisel bevelled? It looks more like a jimpul? I'm currently all about the vinegar.

10th February 2007, 12:33 AM	#9
Daniel Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: California Posts: 16	I haven't cleaned a lot of blades, but as an antique tool collector, I've had to deal with a lot of rust on iron planes, steel chisels, etc. In the past, when confronted with heavy rust on intricate surfaces, a soak for several days in a solution of half and half vinegar and water will dissolve the rust and allow removal with a light pass of steel wool. Pineapple juice probably works in much the same way. While I have heard of it, I have not used the electric current method, but I suspect the results are rather similar to the acid method. The downside to the vinegar bath is that it not only removes surface rust, but it also removes the pockets of rust inside the metal. So while you clean away all the rust, you end up with ugly surface pitting. Also, the surface finish has a "pickled" look. To make the piece presentable, you have to re-patinate the metal. If the item is important and warrants the work, I agree with the hand-labor method. 2/0 steel wool and large amounts of WD-40 plus a lot of elbow grease removes the surface rust, polishes the surface of the metal, but leaves a nice warm patina, and does not expose the pitting. After this treatment, a little touch-up of the edges where the patina has been worn through is often helpful. I've found that a quick and easy way to do touch-up patination is with a dilute solution of gunsmith blueing and browning chemicals. You can pick up Some Birchwood Casey touch-up blueing and browning solution at most gun stores. I dilute them with water, so they work much more slowly. I warm up the part in the oven and lightly wipe the surface with the diluted browning solution, followed by a pass with the diluted bluing solution. It cuts the brightness of the bare spots. After it dries, you can polish with 4/0 steel wool, and protect the finish with a bit of mineral oil. The result looks attractive and natural. And it's easy to control the appearance once you've had a little practice. DD