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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 497
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Plenty of information already given.
I would say that it is indeed not recommended to use any abrasives on a finished kris blade. Mild Acids are all going to do the job. Etching, is optional, but is not an easy job but... you may certainly try the methods recommended in many threads here. If you have someone whom washes in Warangan over there ( we have a few in the NL) do that. About preserving in a plastic sleeve with oil, in the NL this is not done, to my knowledge ( and I know quite a few collectors) . I don't think that in a normal British house this would be a requirement unless humidity is very high. Collectors in tropical climates may have different requirements but temperate climates don't, in my experience, require this. I would add that this is a Maduran blade and sarong and that the hilt is showing in the opposite orientation. Its is normally (or it should be) only friction mounted with some cloth inside you should be able to gently ease it off and then when finished with cleaning put it in the right way. |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 7,064
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You might be right about the use of plastic sleeves Milandro, but I guess it all comes back to individual standards & objectives.
My own objective in respect of blade preservation is that once I have cleaned and stained a blade I want to put it away for as long as I need or wish, and expect come back to it in 5, ten or twenty years & find a perfectly preserved blade with no corrosion present. This result can be achieved by use of my recommended procedure. On the other hand, a blade of ferric material can develop corrosion in a very short period, say 6 months or less, if it is left in contact with wood. The museums where I have assisted staff have kept keris & other blades in climate controlled rooms, removed from scabbards, and resting on glass. These have been Australian museums. I have also examined keris and other bladed weapons in European museums, and in the European museums where I have had the opportunity to examine their holdings I have found that the conditions in which their bladed weapons are held are absolutely terrible, no attempt had been made to prevent corrosion, and sometimes keris were so badly corroded that they could not be removed from their scabbards. There are very good reasons for this failure to conserve & protect public property, but that is another matter. The simple, inarguable fact is that ferric material left in contact with wood or cloth will rust, if we do not want it to rust we must protect it. I live in south east Australia, which is a temperate zone, I am 25 metres from a salt water lake, if I do not wish my quite considerable collection of bladed weapons to deteriorate I must protect them, plastic sleeving & oil is a cheap & simple way to do this. For around 20 years I lived in a different part of Australia that had low humidity, even here I found that continued contact of a steel blade with wood was capable of generating corrosion. If one has only a few bladed weapons and enjoys handling them continually, then it is probably no big problem to ensure that every item is examined every few weeks, cleaned & returned to display or storage, but if one has several hundred, or perhaps several thousand bladed weapons, this continual examination is not really an option. As I have said:- it all comes down to one's objectives & expectations. |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 146
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Just my 2 cents regarding oil and plastic sleeve
My collection is very small (I can count with my fingers), but I also use oil and plastic sleeve. I believe oiling keris is not only part of maintenance but also part of tradition. Moreover I enjoy oiling keris (I do it every month or two), I feel more connection to the keris. |
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#4 | |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,240
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I completely understand Alan's recommendation for plastic sleeves, but have not personally picked up the practice myself. I have been collecting for a few decades at this point and have never had any serious problems with rust accumulation on my blades, first in New York City, then 20 years in Cincinnati and for the last 5 years on the South Shore of Nova Scotia living no more than a mile or so from the Atlantic Ocean. While i am sure that Alan is correct about plastic sleeves helping to protect the blades i am on a personal mission to reduce plastic in my environment on every level. I suppose the plastic used to wrap a blade gets used for a long time before it ends up in the environment, but that will be the eventual destination for it sooner or later. And while i do not doubt that ferric material left in contact with wood will rust more quickly i just don't like placing unnatural substances around a keris blade. Perhaps i have not had any serious rust problems simply because i do try to oil my entire collection regularly, but like you JustYS, i consider it one of the pleasures of collecting rather than an arduous task. ![]() |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 497
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I oil my krises regularly but I don't keep them in a plastic foil and they don't seem to bother, must be the Dutch wind.
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 7,064
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Milandro, I'm talking lengthy periods of time, & large numbers of keris & other sharp pointy things that need to be looked after, I'm also talking about somebody --- me --- whose business is the identification of risk and the management of that risk.
If I only had a limited number of keris & etc to take care of, I probably would not do what I need to do for the large numbers of keris I have held during my lifetime. If we can regularly examine & oil our blades, that is probably sufficient, but not all of us can, and I have stored keris & tombak in extremely adverse conditions for several years using my own controls as recommended, with no adverse effect on the blades, whereas other keris & etc in the same room, at the same time, needed cleaning & staining when I was able to get back to them. As I have said:- objectives & expectations, and these factors can change from person to person. |
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#7 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 97
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Thank you all for the useful responses. Once I have the blade in better condition I shall post more pictures.
Milandro, thank you for the indentification. Regarding the friction mount cloth around the tang (I assume), is that something you would remove before the long treatment with vinegar? |
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