![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Massachusetts, US
Posts: 67
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 | |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,209
|
![]() Quote:
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Massachusetts, US
Posts: 67
|
![]()
I don't know how to move post(s) from one thread to the other, could you advise? I would like to move Allan's response above as well if possible.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 | |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,209
|
![]() Quote:
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,989
|
![]()
SJ, the plastic I use is purchased in 100 meter rolls, it is used in Indonesia by people who sell snack foods, they fold and seal one end over a candle, put the food inside, then seal the other end, it comes in various widths & various thicknesses.
When I have run out of it, I've used sandwich cling wrap. I only wrap the blade and I normally store that oiled and wrapped blade in the wrongko, usually with the top inch or so of the blade not in the wrongko. This is practical, and I have had some keris stored like this for more than 50 years with only an occasional re-oil. I live waterfront to a salt water lake. Those blades are as good now as they were when I first stored them. But if you want the best way to do it --- short of modern museum conditions --- you should store each part separately. Medicinal paraffin is mineral oil, so is Singer sewing machine oil. There are better oils for protection than what I prefer, but gun oil has an ugly smell on keris, I use gun oil on my firearms, I use light mineral oil and aromatic oil on my keris. If the applied gold is true kinatah it has been mechanically fixed, but a lot of current era "kinatah" is fixed with adhesive. If your keris has genuine, mechanically fixed kinatah, the oil will not harm it, if it has "kinatah" fixed with adhesive, it will loosen over time when oil is applied. I have never observed any unwanted blade staining with any oil I have ever used. The easiest way to keep silver looking good is to use a silver polishing cloth. I only ever use Goddards, which is made in England. I have tried other brands in the past and have found them unsatisfactory in one way or another. The hilt will definitely require some patience & delicacy in maintenance, but that maintenance does not need to be often, I leave things go for years sometimes, I do not have the time, nor the inclination to fiddle around with literally hundreds of keris continually, and I do not have the money to pay somebody to do it for me. I do things very infrequently, but when I do work on my collection I do it properly and do it once. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Massachusetts, US
Posts: 67
|
![]() Quote:
I've found Hagerty silver polish for silver. Hopefully it's gentle enough on wood. Cleaning the warangka and hilt might just be my Spring project for this year. Excellent advice and thank you very much as always for sharing! |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Massachusetts, US
Posts: 67
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 | |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,336
|
![]() Quote:
Life is busy enough for most of us. Seek and ye shall find. Think of all the other useful keris related knowledge that will fall your way during the research process. ![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 6,989
|
![]()
SJ, if I were you I would give very serious thought to using Hagerty silver polish, or any other sort of polish, powder, paste or liquid on this hilt.
Polish compounds are designed to be used on large items. When used on small items with delicate detail it becomes extremely difficult to remove all of the applied polish, the result then becomes a residue left in tiny depressions in the work. The removal of this residue then becomes a painstaking job that you need to have a loupe screwed into your eye to complete. Jewellers overcome this problem by using cleaning methods that you cannot use with this wooden hilt. A polishing cloth is really the only practical answer --- well, at least in my experience. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Massachusetts, US
Posts: 67
|
![]() Quote:
The residue ..I see. Though I may get away with using silver foam on silver pendok. But it does sound like polishing cloth is the ideal solution especially for hilt. Thank you very much for the recommendation! |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 | |
Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,209
|
![]() Quote:
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 | |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Massachusetts, US
Posts: 67
|
![]() Quote:
So I totally understand where you're coming from, @David and @Rich. As newbie, I'll take what I can get. I have nothing but high regards for this forum and its contribution to one of Indonesia's cultural heritages. Cheers! |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|