Luristan iron sword need advice for preservation.

RobT · 4th January 2022, 01:52 AM

Cerjak,

Just a minor point not related to your preservation question. I am rather sure that for a ferrous metal object to be cast, it must have a good amount of an alloying element (e.g. carbon or phosphorus). Pure iron (element Fe) melts at 1,535° C (2,800° F). To most people's surprise, this very high temperature was only first obtained in the 20th century. What fuels the confusion is the use of iron in the names of substances which are ferrous metals but not pure iron. For example, both cast iron and pig iron have more carbon in them than does steel used for swords. Cast and pig irons are far too brittle and a sword made from either material would be prone to shattering on impact. Bottom line, if it is a cast Luristan sword, it is either steel or non-ferrous metal and if it is at all close to pure iron (i.e. wrought iron), it was forged, not cast.

Sincerely,
RobT

Will M · 4th January 2022, 02:43 PM

The main concern is moisture and it getting under the corrosion and accelerating it. Never use water as it begins the corrosion process and will flake off more material. The aim is to dry the object on low heat then seal it with something like Renaissance wax. Use a brush and apply the wax liberally and warm it up until the wax melts, then let cool. Or you can pay the money for a professional conservator.

Lee · 4th January 2022, 03:40 PM

Unfortunately, I cannot find the detailed 'recipe' at the moment, but once I followed a procedure of soaking a flaking sword in alkalinized (using sodium hydroxide) distilled water (refreshed every couple of days when pH dropped below, if I remember correctly, 11) for several weeks (until the pH stabilized,) followed by three day long soaks in anhydrous isopropyl alcohol followed by a couple of soaks in acetone and then a coating with paraloid B-72 as a sealer. Several years later, this still appears to have stabilized the sword.

Cerjak · 4th January 2022, 07:21 PM

many thanks for all these advices, I will expand on the leads given here.
Again many thanks and Happy New Year to all of you.

Bob A · 4th January 2022, 10:56 PM

Electrochemical restoration?

https://link.springer.com/article/10...008-009-0876-4

4th January 2022, 01:52 AM	#1
RobT Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 568	Can't be Cast & Pure Iron Cerjak, Just a minor point not related to your preservation question. I am rather sure that for a ferrous metal object to be cast, it must have a good amount of an alloying element (e.g. carbon or phosphorus). Pure iron (element Fe) melts at 1,535° C (2,800° F). To most people's surprise, this very high temperature was only first obtained in the 20th century. What fuels the confusion is the use of iron in the names of substances which are ferrous metals but not pure iron. For example, both cast iron and pig iron have more carbon in them than does steel used for swords. Cast and pig irons are far too brittle and a sword made from either material would be prone to shattering on impact. Bottom line, if it is a cast Luristan sword, it is either steel or non-ferrous metal and if it is at all close to pure iron (i.e. wrought iron), it was forged, not cast. Sincerely, RobT

4th January 2022, 02:43 PM	#2
Will M Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: In the wee woods north of Napanee Ontario Posts: 406	The main concern is moisture and it getting under the corrosion and accelerating it. Never use water as it begins the corrosion process and will flake off more material. The aim is to dry the object on low heat then seal it with something like Renaissance wax. Use a brush and apply the wax liberally and warm it up until the wax melts, then let cool. Or you can pay the money for a professional conservator.

4th January 2022, 03:40 PM	#3
Lee EAAF Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Upstate New York, USA Posts: 970	Unfortunately, I cannot find the detailed 'recipe' at the moment, but once I followed a procedure of soaking a flaking sword in alkalinized (using sodium hydroxide) distilled water (refreshed every couple of days when pH dropped below, if I remember correctly, 11) for several weeks (until the pH stabilized,) followed by three day long soaks in anhydrous isopropyl alcohol followed by a couple of soaks in acetone and then a coating with paraloid B-72 as a sealer. Several years later, this still appears to have stabilized the sword.

4th January 2022, 07:21 PM	#4
Cerjak Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: FRANCE Posts: 1,065	many thanks for all these advices, I will expand on the leads given here. Again many thanks and Happy New Year to all of you.

4th January 2022, 10:56 PM	#5
Bob A Member Join Date: Feb 2014 Posts: 446	Electrochemical restoration? https://link.springer.com/article/10...008-009-0876-4