Datu Kris with Ivory pommel

Ian · 19th April 2021, 09:42 PM

David raises some interesting points. I think the blade is pre-WWII. The scabbard could be a later replacement, and the metal strips might be from low grade silver or other white metal as David suggests. However, the filigree work suggests silver to me. Similarly some of the metal work on the hilt may be more recent.

From what I can see of the pommel, I favor ivory rather than bone. The discolored areas are consistent with oil staining. Additional close up pictures would help settle the ivory or bone question. Check under the beak and the crest also for signs of bone.

As far as polishing cloth versus paste, I think it's a matter of preference. Both are mildly abrasive (which is how the oxidized material is removed). Cloths are great for flat surfaces, but cannot get into the nooks and crannies as well in my experience. Small amounts of paste with a soft toothbrush does a better job. Polishing cloths can also snag on filigree work, etc. I've ruined a few good polishing cloths that way. Using a paste with ordinary cotton cloths will still snag, but ordinary cotton cloths are a lot cheaper to replace than impregnated ones. The latter, of course, do not have the residue issue.

Battara · 20th April 2021, 04:22 AM

With the patina missing, I would suggest the "silver" are in fact nickel/copper alloy "German Silver".

Based on the patina and lack of vessicals on the pommel, I too think this is ivory.

On the jeweler's cloth - it is mostly for gems and soft metals like silver, gold, and copper (even brass). It is soft so that it would leave only microscopic scratches on the surface as it takes off the oxidation. For steel, it would be of little use - paper would be more useful for a soft abrasive (depending upon how shiny you want the blade).

David · 20th April 2021, 04:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Battara

On the jeweler's cloth - it is mostly for gems and soft metals like silver, gold, and copper (even brass). It is soft so that it would leave only microscopic scratches on the surface as it takes off the oxidation. For steel, it would be of little use - paper would be more useful for a soft abrasive (depending upon how shiny you want the blade).

José, i certainly was not suggesting the use of the jewelers cloth for the steel blade. LOL!

19th April 2021, 09:42 PM	#1
Ian Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: The Aussie Bush Posts: 4,469	David raises some interesting points. I think the blade is pre-WWII. The scabbard could be a later replacement, and the metal strips might be from low grade silver or other white metal as David suggests. However, the filigree work suggests silver to me. Similarly some of the metal work on the hilt may be more recent. From what I can see of the pommel, I favor ivory rather than bone. The discolored areas are consistent with oil staining. Additional close up pictures would help settle the ivory or bone question. Check under the beak and the crest also for signs of bone. As far as polishing cloth versus paste, I think it's a matter of preference. Both are mildly abrasive (which is how the oxidized material is removed). Cloths are great for flat surfaces, but cannot get into the nooks and crannies as well in my experience. Small amounts of paste with a soft toothbrush does a better job. Polishing cloths can also snag on filigree work, etc. I've ruined a few good polishing cloths that way. Using a paste with ordinary cotton cloths will still snag, but ordinary cotton cloths are a lot cheaper to replace than impregnated ones. The latter, of course, do not have the residue issue.

20th April 2021, 04:22 AM	#2
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,325	With the patina missing, I would suggest the "silver" are in fact nickel/copper alloy "German Silver". Based on the patina and lack of vessicals on the pommel, I too think this is ivory. On the jeweler's cloth - it is mostly for gems and soft metals like silver, gold, and copper (even brass). It is soft so that it would leave only microscopic scratches on the surface as it takes off the oxidation. For steel, it would be of little use - paper would be more useful for a soft abrasive (depending upon how shiny you want the blade).