![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 2,797
|
![]() Quote:
I should have said that if you have a spent brass cartridge case somewhere around 303 cal, squash the open end and use that. Handy tool which I use often in this situation. Stu |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 431
|
![]()
Here we are now. The bumped contrast makes the pits seem darker than they are to the eye. Except for a couple small spots I believe the rust is completely gone now, perhaps one or two more soaking rounds. Note the blade on the open scabbard side has much more extensive pitting, you can see the outline of the staples. The question is, what next?
Also, please see the scabbard photos. What options are there for repairing the cracks? I've been feeding the wood oil for several days but the long thin crack at the foot of the scabbard is not closing. The crack series along the staples have wider gaps but seem more stable. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 2,797
|
![]()
Hi Jeffs,
Good job IMHO. I think you have now reached the stage where you need to decide how far you want to go. Bear in mind that the knife has age so unless you want something which looks "shiney new" I personally would not go any further with the blade (just my opinion) Some like to "restore" to the extent that all of the age patina is gone. Regarding the scabbard, I would stabilise that long crack with a suitable wood glue, other wise there could be a risk of total breakage. The small cracks along the edge are probably age cracks, so I would leave as is. Note the above is my opinion and no doubt others will have different suggestions. Stu |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 | |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 431
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 2,797
|
![]() Quote:
Depends on how dry the wood is after you have oiled it. I would use PVA wood glue if the wood is dry enough. Apply glue and then clamp the crack together and allow time for glue to dry. What is your plan regarding the rust on the staples? If you are able to remove them from the scabbard easily then maybe they should be soaked in vinegar also. I have never owned one of these knives so don't know how the staples are fitted. If they can not be removed easily then maybe rub some vinegar on them with a rag. A word of caution....If you do remove the staples make sure you number them so they go back in the same place. They look to vary in length. Stu Last edited by kahnjar1; 29th September 2020 at 06:25 AM. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,269
|
![]()
JeffS, I've been reading about your progress in the cleaning of your very nice and rare sword, and the only advice that I feel qualified to give you is"DO NOT REMOVE THE STAPLES."They will break, the wood will splinter and they will never go back in the way they came out. I would gently use the brass casing first and then sandpaper; make sure that the metal strips are supported from the underside as you softly apply pressure from the top.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 | |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 431
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|