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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 232
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Thank you so very much for your inputs. I really appreciate it!
Yes, it is a coin placed between the hilt and blade. It looks like 25 centavos and the one they made between 1958-1967. Are the metal bits actually silver? I really do not know… When it comes to the scabbard I do not know what kind of wood it is yet but I can say that the wood is very dry. I haven´t done anything yet when it comes to polish the metal parts….Got it yesterday…. Sounds like a good advice Detlef, to polish the blade and give it an etch with vinegar but shall I do that myself…. I do not think so…. My thumb is in the middle of my hand so to speak…. ![]() I want it to be properly done by someone who know what he is doing because I do not want to destroy anything…. Have seen it so many times when it comes to old Winchester lever guns…. Guys who thought the knew what they were doing…. Sure! I believe more in Harry Callahans: “A man´s got to know his limitations”. Again, thank you so very much for your inputs… It is amazing how much knowledge you can find here in this forum. I am so very happy for my Moro Kris and as my first one I didn´t do so bad, I think. ![]() Best, Stefan |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Room 101, Glos. UK
Posts: 4,259
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[QUOTE=Hombre...
I am so very happy for my Moro Kris and as my first one I didn´t do so bad, I think. ![]() Best, Stefan[/QUOTE] Yup, nice start, I like them more than theIndonesian/Malay Keris, which are more esoteric and ceremonial, With tons of hidden magic and meaning - which many here are enamoured and can shed light on many subtleties. The Moro Kris, tho it has it's own variations, is first and foremost a weapon. In the Phillipenes, Barung/Bolo/Ginunting, etc. are still go-to choices, especially in the jungles where a rifle can be difficult to manouver. |
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#3 | |
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Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Aussie Bush
Posts: 4,527
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Quote:
The hard part is the cleaning and polishing which will take some time and can be rather tedious. I don't use any sandpaper that is coarser than a 200 grit, and then move on to 400 and 600, and even 1200, for the polish. Polishing and etching is easy and you should have no problems. You may need to try something stronger than vinegar, in which case I would suggest trying ferric chloride. Start with a dilute solution, say 10% in distilled water, and don't go any stronger than 20% until you have a feel for it. Use cold solutions initially as this gives a slower reaction and you have more time to assess what is happening. Later you can try warm solutions or preheating the blade in hot water--this accelerates the process. Once you have achieved the desired etch you need to neutralize the acid with a solution of bicarbonate of soda. Some people apply a paste of sodium bicarbonate, although this can smudge the etch. Rinse thoroughly, allow to dry and then apply a light oil. My early attempts were a matter of trial and error (and still are sometimes). You will find very helpful suggestions about etching blades on the Forum pages if you do a simple search. Ian. |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 232
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Again, thank you so very much for your inputs when it comes to this Moro kris.
I really appreciate it and it is a privilege to be a member in this forum! Best, Stefan |
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