Turkish sword , good stuff ?

Martin Lubojacky · 7th November 2018, 06:10 AM

I am not expert in "Turkish" weapons, nevertheless my view is, that you have nice kilij - from the category of "ordinary or normal kilijis" (very nice blade, nice handle, normal - maybe beg. of 20th century crossguard and maybe not the original one - I think made of brass, and it is always a pity that the scabbard is missing). Such miserable "repairs" (made quickly just to sell the sword asap) could be repaired, the sword needs restoreation. I think it is not from 18 century. My guess would be 19 century.

francantolin · 7th November 2018, 06:35 AM

Hello and thank you all for your really precious comments !

I was thinking of welding because this stuff is dropped too on the brass side of the hilt maybe to seal everything together...
but it must be epoxy.
Bad work

...

Thank you and Kind regards !!!

MichaelZWilliamson · 7th November 2018, 07:36 AM

Specifically, that appears to be JB Weld. I HATE JB Weld for reasons like this. Whoever did the repair meant well, but used the worst stuff possible.

You can see some here where someone attempted to repair worm damage to a percussion rifle.

It's very difficult to remove.

ariel · 7th November 2018, 09:57 AM

The only way to remove epoxy is to use Dremel. From time to time I see silver Ottoman crossguards on eBay. But yours has langets that fit the slots on the handle, and a new one will likely not. Stay with what you have.
For a complete restoration you will also need to find or fashion new tear-drop eyelets on the pommel. Much more difficult to accomplish than buying a Dremel tool .
Or just make peace with kisses of time.

Kubur · 7th November 2018, 10:16 AM

This sword is perfect, just remove the bad epoxy repair.
The cross guard is original to me, many Turkish swords have brass cross guards.
Good catch

MichaelZWilliamson · 8th November 2018, 01:50 AM

Heat will break the epoxy down, if you can first dismount the hilt by driving the pin. I'm not suggesting you should, just that's how it can be done.

ariel · 8th November 2018, 04:17 AM

Well, sure, and after that face reassembly of the hilt, fashioning contemporaneous mastique, reattaching the tang band, and then go back to square one: how to re-attach the crossguard. Looks to me like scratching your right ear with your left big toe.

Get yourself a Dremel and spend 15 minutes freeing the crossguard and removing all traces of epoxy. Buy this:

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/00260042?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Tapes+%26+Adhesives+-+PLA_sBsWHaKq7___164110845012_c_S&mkwid=sBsWHaKq7| dc&pcrid=164110845012&rd=k&product_id=00260042&gcl id=EAIaIQobChMIyNu9rPXD3gIVxMDACh25AQj2EAQYBSABEgJ GS_D_BwE

Devcon steel epoxy. Apply thin layer of the mixture to the sites of metal-to metal contact You will have to use literally microscopic amounts of it, with no oozing outside the borders and the strongest bond available: it is used industrially and , when hardened, can even be machined. If you overfill the bonding surfaces and the epoxy becomes visible, then, when it is still soft, just wipe the undesireable traces off with cotton wool wetted gently with alcohol. Hold together tight for 15 minutes, then let it cure for 24 hours.

Overall, piece of cake.

Interested Party · 30th May 2023, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MichaelZWilliamson

Heat will break the epoxy down, if you can first dismount the hilt by driving the pin. I'm not suggesting you should, just that's how it can be done.

Old thread I know, but as long as it has been brought back to life, I thought to add this foot note to the restoration and repair portion of this thread. JB Weld is designed to be heat resistant to the point it has been used to repair cracked engine blocks. It will not soften noticeably at a heat that will not destroy the sword hilt. It is also fairly wear-resistant. I have seen it used on large residential lawn mowers to repair the drive pully. the repair held for a decade. Ariel was right about the Dremel tool, chisels. and file/rasps being the way to remove the epoxy.

BTW Francantolin, what became of this sword?

7th November 2018, 06:35 AM	#2
francantolin Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 922	Hello and thank you all for your really precious comments ! I was thinking of welding because this stuff is dropped too on the brass side of the hilt maybe to seal everything together... but it must be epoxy. Bad work ... Thank you and Kind regards !!! Attached Images

7th November 2018, 06:10 AM	#1
Martin Lubojacky Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Czech Republic Posts: 845	I am not expert in "Turkish" weapons, nevertheless my view is, that you have nice kilij - from the category of "ordinary or normal kilijis" (very nice blade, nice handle, normal - maybe beg. of 20th century crossguard and maybe not the original one - I think made of brass, and it is always a pity that the scabbard is missing). Such miserable "repairs" (made quickly just to sell the sword asap) could be repaired, the sword needs restoreation. I think it is not from 18 century. My guess would be 19 century.

7th November 2018, 07:36 AM	#3
MichaelZWilliamson Member Join Date: Nov 2018 Posts: 50	Specifically, that appears to be JB Weld. I HATE JB Weld for reasons like this. Whoever did the repair meant well, but used the worst stuff possible. You can see some here where someone attempted to repair worm damage to a percussion rifle. It's very difficult to remove.

7th November 2018, 09:57 AM	#4
ariel Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 5,503	The only way to remove epoxy is to use Dremel. From time to time I see silver Ottoman crossguards on eBay. But yours has langets that fit the slots on the handle, and a new one will likely not. Stay with what you have. For a complete restoration you will also need to find or fashion new tear-drop eyelets on the pommel. Much more difficult to accomplish than buying a Dremel tool . Or just make peace with kisses of time.

7th November 2018, 10:16 AM	#5
Kubur Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 2,145	This sword is perfect, just remove the bad epoxy repair. The cross guard is original to me, many Turkish swords have brass cross guards. Good catch

8th November 2018, 01:50 AM	#6
MichaelZWilliamson Member Join Date: Nov 2018 Posts: 50	Heat will break the epoxy down, if you can first dismount the hilt by driving the pin. I'm not suggesting you should, just that's how it can be done.

8th November 2018, 04:17 AM	#7
ariel Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 5,503	Well, sure, and after that face reassembly of the hilt, fashioning contemporaneous mastique, reattaching the tang band, and then go back to square one: how to re-attach the crossguard. Looks to me like scratching your right ear with your left big toe. Get yourself a Dremel and spend 15 minutes freeing the crossguard and removing all traces of epoxy. Buy this: https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/00260042?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Tapes+%26+Adhesives+-+PLA_sBsWHaKq7___164110845012_c_S&mkwid=sBsWHaKq7\| dc&pcrid=164110845012&rd=k&product_id=00260042&gcl id=EAIaIQobChMIyNu9rPXD3gIVxMDACh25AQj2EAQYBSABEgJ GS_D_BwE Devcon steel epoxy. Apply thin layer of the mixture to the sites of metal-to metal contact You will have to use literally microscopic amounts of it, with no oozing outside the borders and the strongest bond available: it is used industrially and , when hardened, can even be machined. If you overfill the bonding surfaces and the epoxy becomes visible, then, when it is still soft, just wipe the undesireable traces off with cotton wool wetted gently with alcohol. Hold together tight for 15 minutes, then let it cure for 24 hours. Overall, piece of cake.