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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NC, U.S.A.
Posts: 2,184
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Here we go again. Some are better, some not so great. After these, if there are any specific views anyone wants, let me know!
Mark |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NC, U.S.A.
Posts: 2,184
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Note the stock end doesn't look like it ever had a butt plate. The lock looks snug with the stock, no gaps and the metal patina matches the barrel. I know we discussed that the lock might be a replacement, but I don't think so. The whole piece appears to be made as one piece.
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NC, U.S.A.
Posts: 2,184
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Pics...
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NC, U.S.A.
Posts: 2,184
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The last, I promise! Unless more requested, that is-
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 803
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Rick,
Very good photos of the lock! Thank you for that. First thing that struck me about it, is how Hard it looks. As in, case hardened. Should be of course, but it looks like ceramic! Should wear very well if you stock it up. Nice to see the 'simple' details. I want to make one at some time! Did you get to try your toradar yet? Mine is getting better, but doesn't like patches. Mark, Thank you for the additional photos,...though some hurt my eyes! Can't see any problems, maybe the odd screw replaced, nothing major. Agreed it would never have had a buttplate. Congrats again! R. |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NC, U.S.A.
Posts: 2,184
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Note that this musket isn't stamped. I know not all were, but is this any indication of where it was used? Wouldn't an English CW gun have the proper government marking? Export? To the Americas?
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#7 | |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO area.
Posts: 1,633
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![]() Quote:
All the "stress" parts of the lock are hardened. Which, as you mentioned you would want. Especially the sear on these horizontal sear locks, which is the weak point. That "ceramic" look on the lock is just do to the parts not being polished out yet. That's just how the castings come out. Will look much better after polishing. No. Believe it or not, I still have not had the Torador out yet. Can't seem to stop dabbling with other gun stuff to get to the range. ![]() You might try a pre-greased wad with an over-powder card. Some guys like it better. Rick |
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO area.
Posts: 1,633
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OK. Here's another "transition" type of lock copied from an original in a private collection. This is called a Snaplock, from a Dutch/Swedish gun from about the first-second quarter of the 17th Century. Again, with the large proportions, this lock would have been fitted/refitted to a stock similar to a matchlock of the period.
Even with it's arcane look it functions quite well. It is a very simple design. You have to manually move the pan cover to expose the priming powder before firing, just like a matchlock. There is only a full cock position, with the only safety feature being to leave the frizzen in the forward postion until the anticipated need. While very simplistic, this lock would have been much preferred over a lit match from a matchlock. Just another variation of of the experimentation during the first half of the 17th Century. By the way, I am currently having a gun made using this lock. Should be fun. Rick |
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#9 | |
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO area.
Posts: 1,633
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![]() Quote:
If you get a chance, can you take a couple more photos of the frizzen and pan area from different angles ? Thanks. Rick |
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