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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Room 101, Glos. UK
Posts: 4,215
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still using ballistol here.
or BLO on wood. LO is actually flax seed oil, flax fibre=linen. be careful, most commercial BLO uses chemical additives, usually metallic oxides and salts to get the quick drying effect rather than spending all that time required if it is actually boiled. it's poisonous, so don't hand rub with it. i found some proper actually 'boiled' blo at my local hardware store, they also happen to be the local undertaker and coffin maker. (small town ![]() |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 435
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For what it may be worth, I have used a product called Eezox on some metal items. It is both a solvent and a rust inhibitor. For red surface rust, and as a protection for some blades, I've found that cleaning with eezox and a stainless steel ribbon sponge, sold as "scrub buds", will remove light rust without damaging the surface finish, for example the bluing on firearms. Several applications, wiped with an absorbent rag, will leave red-brown staining on the rag, until the rust is minimised. I leave eezox on the surface to dry, where it forms a protective barrier against further oxidation. Once everything has dried, an application of renaissance wax serves as additional protection.
Obviously there are objects for which this is inappropriate. That said, I've found blades and firearms so treated have remained protected for more than a few years, admittedly in a reasonably controlled environment. |
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#3 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 205
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I wonder why some blades keep there smell for years where others fade in a few weeks time. Nowadays I don't use fragant oils just a cheap sewing oil. Could it be that the smell is absorbed by the inside of the gandar ?
Once I had to change the dress of a blade with a longlasting smell but in the replaced dress it did not have that strong smell anymore hence my conclusion. |
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