Moukhalla

rickystl · 28th March 2016, 09:50 AM

Well, the sear spring is designed the same as the trigger spring, just arched in the opposite direction. The trick is finding someone who both understands these locks, and can forge springs. Good luck. Let me know if you need some more help.
Rick.

BANDOOK · 28th March 2016, 10:26 AM

HI RICK ,I HAVE BEEN FOLOWING ALL YOUR POSTS AND RESTORATION TECHNIQUES,ALL I MUST SAY IS THAT YOU HAVE LOTS AND LOTS OF PATIENCE,AND GO DEEP INTO DETAIL UNTILL YOU GET THINGS PERFECT,VERY GOOD,HOPE I HAD THOSE TRAITS
REGARDS RAJESH

blue lander · 28th March 2016, 02:31 PM

Here's a closeup of where the cock and sear meet. I don't see what I'd call a slot, it's more of a sloping ledge (I circled it in red).

Anyways, I took a binder clip and and put the "legs" between the sear so it'd act as a makeshift sear spring. I pulled the cock back and I felt the lock engage for a split second before the clip few out across the room. I have a feeling even with a proper sear spring, the surfaces of both the cock and sear are too worn down to engage.

blue lander · 28th March 2016, 07:53 PM

I made a makeshift sear spring out of the binder clip. That metal's actually pretty tough and springs well.

Now when I pull the cock all the way back the sear does pop out as far as the mechanism allows it to. But because the sear is bent, it can't catch the trigger latch. If it were straight it'd catch no problem.

On the other end the sear's too worn down to hold the cock in place. I don't see how it could be repaired, so I'm going to look into replacing it. I know a site that sells parts to build your own English style Snaphaunce, I'm going to contact them to see if the dimensions of the sear they sell could be made to work with my mechanism.

blue lander · 29th March 2016, 10:59 PM

I wrapped a ziptie around the sear, pulled the cock back as far as it'd go, and pulled on that ziptie to put more pressure on the sear. I was able to get the sear to engage the trigger mechanism but just barely. But once the sear engaged the trigger, the cock did stay cocked. So I either need a much stronger sear spring, a new unbent sear, or to file a bit of the sear off so it engages the trigger easier.

rickystl · 30th March 2016, 06:31 AM

Hi Blue Lander.

Well, you do in fact see how the lock is supposed to work. Great. And yes, "ledge" may be a better word to use here. It appears the sear is both worn and bent. The gun was probably used all the way up until the sear/spring reached it's current condition. Aside from making or acquiring a new sear, the only way to repair it would be to heat the sear and bend the tail straight, and add a small amount of metal via small arc welding rod to the engagement end, and filing to fit. Although, as you mentioned, the ledge on the inside of the hammer may be so worn, that nothing will engage it. In that case, metal will also have to be added to that point on the hammer and filed to mate with the sear. Tough job. But it can be done since the lock and parts are forgings versus castings.
But it would probably be easier to just make new parts using the old ones as a pattern. A sharper cut could be made on the hammer ledge, and a new sear with a slightly longer engagement arm to make up for the worn hammer.
Again, during the period, these locks must have been in a constant state of repair/replacement. I don't believe they had a good knowledge of heat t eating of primary stress/wear points. That's probably also one of the reasons the mainsprings were made extra thick and strong. To make up for the lack of heat treating knowledge.
Rick.

28th March 2016, 02:31 PM	#3
blue lander Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Posts: 456	Here's a closeup of where the cock and sear meet. I don't see what I'd call a slot, it's more of a sloping ledge (I circled it in red). Anyways, I took a binder clip and and put the "legs" between the sear so it'd act as a makeshift sear spring. I pulled the cock back and I felt the lock engage for a split second before the clip few out across the room. I have a feeling even with a proper sear spring, the surfaces of both the cock and sear are too worn down to engage. Attached Images

28th March 2016, 07:53 PM	#4
blue lander Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Posts: 456	I made a makeshift sear spring out of the binder clip. That metal's actually pretty tough and springs well. Now when I pull the cock all the way back the sear does pop out as far as the mechanism allows it to. But because the sear is bent, it can't catch the trigger latch. If it were straight it'd catch no problem. On the other end the sear's too worn down to hold the cock in place. I don't see how it could be repaired, so I'm going to look into replacing it. I know a site that sells parts to build your own English style Snaphaunce, I'm going to contact them to see if the dimensions of the sear they sell could be made to work with my mechanism. Attached Images

29th March 2016, 10:59 PM	#5
blue lander Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Posts: 456	I wrapped a ziptie around the sear, pulled the cock back as far as it'd go, and pulled on that ziptie to put more pressure on the sear. I was able to get the sear to engage the trigger mechanism but just barely. But once the sear engaged the trigger, the cock did stay cocked. So I either need a much stronger sear spring, a new unbent sear, or to file a bit of the sear off so it engages the trigger easier. Attached Images

28th March 2016, 09:50 AM	#1
rickystl Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Louis, MO area. Posts: 1,630	Well, the sear spring is designed the same as the trigger spring, just arched in the opposite direction. The trick is finding someone who both understands these locks, and can forge springs. Good luck. Let me know if you need some more help. Rick.

28th March 2016, 10:26 AM	#2
BANDOOK Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND Posts: 624	HI RICK ,I HAVE BEEN FOLOWING ALL YOUR POSTS AND RESTORATION TECHNIQUES,ALL I MUST SAY IS THAT YOU HAVE LOTS AND LOTS OF PATIENCE,AND GO DEEP INTO DETAIL UNTILL YOU GET THINGS PERFECT,VERY GOOD,HOPE I HAD THOSE TRAITS REGARDS RAJESH

30th March 2016, 06:31 AM	#6
rickystl Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Louis, MO area. Posts: 1,630	Hi Blue Lander. Well, you do in fact see how the lock is supposed to work. Great. And yes, "ledge" may be a better word to use here. It appears the sear is both worn and bent. The gun was probably used all the way up until the sear/spring reached it's current condition. Aside from making or acquiring a new sear, the only way to repair it would be to heat the sear and bend the tail straight, and add a small amount of metal via small arc welding rod to the engagement end, and filing to fit. Although, as you mentioned, the ledge on the inside of the hammer may be so worn, that nothing will engage it. In that case, metal will also have to be added to that point on the hammer and filed to mate with the sear. Tough job. But it can be done since the lock and parts are forgings versus castings. But it would probably be easier to just make new parts using the old ones as a pattern. A sharper cut could be made on the hammer ledge, and a new sear with a slightly longer engagement arm to make up for the worn hammer. Again, during the period, these locks must have been in a constant state of repair/replacement. I don't believe they had a good knowledge of heat t eating of primary stress/wear points. That's probably also one of the reasons the mainsprings were made extra thick and strong. To make up for the lack of heat treating knowledge. Rick.